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Speaking of the Miller C-3826 Building a Miller C-3826 clone is fairly easy.

I went to check my original print ’72 body manual, it too is misprinted with a copy of the front wiring labeled as rear. A couple of pages away I found a loose-leaf page tucked in that appears to be from a TSB binder with the actual rear body diagram, interesting.

Page 5-64 in the '72 body manual. Just noticed that's a copy of the front end wiring on the page before it.

That rear body harness diagram is on page 8-125 of the ’70 Plymouth service manual, the OP asked about a ’70. By ’72, some of the body related electrical diagrams were in the separate ’72 Body service manual. It’s my understanding Hamtrack Historical had to pull the service manuals because...

Interesting, a Mopar Performance P-number. Would that indicate the harness smoke level somehow relates to performance? Funny, not really seeing a need for replacement harness smoke, these harnesses seem to have the potential to generate an unlimited amount of smoke over and over again in the...

BTW, I recently dug out that “Fixture” and revamped it a bit for a new series of videos on common “vintage” Chrysler electrical systems that I am currently working on. Will go back over some of the material covered in last year’s videos, expanding out a bit on some other related circuits and...

As mentioned, it appears one terminal has been clipped, very common practice for rebuilders to do that after grounding the terminal to make a dual isolated field alternator into a single field alternator for use on a pre ’70 application. I would remove that brush assembly, or just the mounting...

Definite slip ring/contact issue there.

Yes, you can adjust the regulator down a bit to compensate but you are not really addressing the core voltage drop issue.

Definitely, a healthy battery in a low state of charge will draw some current for some time until it reaches a full state of charge. No factory electric chokes in ’70 but there are several other items on the ignition 1 circuit in the engine harness, blue or dark blue is the common color code for...

The regulator does not cut off charging to the battery, it maintains a set voltage as referenced on the ignition 1 (blue) wire at the regulator while running. The state of charge of battery determines rate of battery charge current. If the battery is healthy and at a full state of charge, there...

What am I missing here? ’72 Polara runs an externally shunted ammeter, there is no significant current running through the dash mounted ammeter, the ammeter or related 20ga wiring can be open, won’t disable the vehicle. As mentioned, need to resolve the reason why jumping the starter relay...

Actually, a very good chance at the moment, it is currently penciled in on my calendar, so far, no conflicts. I used to participate in Sunburst fairly regularly when I was more actively showing, it’s been a few years.

May want to check with Tom@RocketResto.com here in Washington state, he recently acquired Len Dawson’s Deception Pass Motor Parts inventory (very large NOS Chrysler parts collection), see if he has that part number (2770311) in stock.

Another option, maybe not so vintage, is to build a simple circuit around a 4PDT relay and a flasher, would make switch selection easier, could be controlled from a much wider variety of single throw switches as opposed to trying to find something purpose made and 60+years old.

A ’69 and back alternator field terminal was not internally grounded, one brush was grounded through its mounting screw, and did not have a spade connection. The later dual isolated field alternators can be easily modified for an older application by removing the insulator under one of the brush...

Those cheap turn signal switch reproductions do not last, be prepared to do the job again in short order. Key identifiers, the yellow cancel cam, the lack of a horn slip ring contact wheel, and strange color coded wiring in the pigtail. They are manufactured off-shore, sold by many resellers...

Exactly, out of the box the original Sniper (1) was configured to open both throttle shafts at the same time, right from idle, made for touchy off-idle throttle response. I found it also interfered with the transmission throttle pressure to throttle position relationship. A shorter link was...

Interesting older thread on the Sniper 1 install, nice job. I ran one on a 400 in one of my cars for a while and played with converting it to a progressive linkage. The later firmware supports it, do have to replace the link rod, using a different hole location in the primary throttle lever. It...

Yes, the lamp sockets need to be grounded. If they are loose, they are not grounding to the housing. Fitting currently available generic replacement lamp sockets in these cars can be a challenge these days. The plug is for an optional diode to enable a lights on warning buzzer.