Search results for query: *

Rod plug was easy to unscrew. The rod itself is 1/16th inch shy of 3.25 inches but appears to be in good shape, not battered. Is that measurement approximate and a huge issue? This engine ran okay before it suddenly didn't.

All helpful suggestions. I did remove the Alternator for better access and viewing. D. Cluely above, mentions the rod should be 3.25 inches. Will check that as well.

Very Helpful regarding Q’s 1&3. Thanks much!

Three questions. q1: I was able to take off my fuel pump for a 66 monaco, 383. Getting the bolt nearest the block to line up again and thread-into the block is driving me nuts. I've spent an hour puttering to no avail. I even tried putting the old one back on, on the chance that some dimension...

Is this the replacement for the roller and bracket. I don't see how this would work? Just not seeing the similarity.

I have the housings with the little rollers still working, but none of the large rollers. Any suggestions where to find them or complete replacements?

I appreciate the responses. I realize there's lots of TLC to make this fun to drive. SPD, not sure what that indicates? I have all the door panels, though the driver side is tired. I have the chrome eye brows, the chrome front "skirt" for driver side fender. I also have the pad for the console...

Hoped to see more interest in this car. Willing to listen to offers, suggestions what are biggest issues.

The interior is not very handsome and most of it is pulled out while I attempted the rear quarter window repair. Here's the door and fender tag. Indicates a Monaco 500 (I feared the DP indicated Dodge Polara. Not so.) Happy to post a few more images of parts or answer more questions.

Purchased this a decade ago and just never found the time I hoped to put into it. Rear-end was hit when I purchased it. A shade tree mechanic pounded it out and got the trunk lid sitting pretty square. The rear quarters and trunk had some holes that needed to be filled. A fiber-glass patch...

In trying to bleed my brakes I drained the master cylinder. (I started getting lots of bubbles as my first clue). Do I now need to do a bench bleed on the master cylinder to get it right, or can I add more fluid to the thing and bleed all the brakes until the lines are clear of bubbles. If I can...

Possibly a helpful hint for others. Hold the brake line back against the flare nut as you tighten it in. Seems to have set and no drips (so far).

Middle and bottom photos are the pulled cylinders, top is the new purchase. I've done some more investigating around town. Autozone had two more of the same cylinders and they look exactly like my top photo so I've done no damage. I also pulled the brake apart and bolted the cylinder to the line...

Cleanest cylinder is the new one that leaks at the nut. It appears to be flatter inside the flare nut bore. I caused that via tightening or the flare on the line is a different type than the original as noted in the other two dirty cylinders. Discerning eyes?

If you recognize my name you know I've been haltingly working on the brakes of my 66 Monaco. Today's (and yesterday's) mystery is the brake line running from the "T" at the differential to the driver side rear passenger wheel cylinder. All the components in the brake are new. The original line...

Front wheel bearing is correct.

Reading about the appropriate torque on the spindle nut for 66 Monaco. It states 90 inch pounds. Using a conversion page that comes out to 7.5 foot lbs. That seems like not much. Thoughts?

Here's a photo of the current situation. Star wheel rubs against the adjuster arm but I can manually turn the star up or down. The arm does not fall into gaps to lock. Could it be that I just need to adjust the star outward enough for the wheel to locate properly. Currently it's set as closed...

The adjusters are new and correctly located, based on the images I've seen, but there is no way/no flange to catch on. This is true of the old ones as well. Mystery.

Found 2 and three quarter inch front shoes through autozone.