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But FIRST I have to replace the fuel tank sending unit gasket. Got a puddle of premium under the old girl. UGH

Yep. That's my car. She already had the caps when I got her. Assuming they're original based on the condition of the rest of the car but can't say for certain. Anyway, I also found them here: Classic Industries | Restoration Parts | Mopar Parts | Camaro Parts | Firebird Parts | Nova Parts |...

I've heard about that. Reckon I'll get out the Dremel.

Started buying parts about a year ago. Engine guy is swamped pretty much all the time with racers on a deadline so I kinda get pushed back every now & then. Suits me fine really. I still need to upgrade the brakes & do some front end work. It also gives me time to research parts choices...

Funny you mention rod weight. I had the whole balancing thing done and it was weird. (Well, I thought it was weird.) My pistons are noticeably lighter than the factory cast but the heavy rods made it balance out about the same as the stock combo. I don't have my build sheet in front of me right...

Agreed. You are absolutely correct. My build is nowhere near that caliber. I've always admired boat motors' ability to go so hard for so long Almost 4hp/cid is respectable by any standard. I'm only looking for about 2hp/cid that will survive on pump gas. It's been done before with comparable...

Nothing lasts if the run is long enough. :)

Firstly, please try to keep in mind that DynoSim is not my sole source of info. It's a virtual testbed. Secondly, also know that I've been an engine freak since I learned to read. I've read about more actual builds than I can remember.....hundreds if not thousands of builds done by regular...

5800? How do you figure that? And yes, I'm running a deep sump pan. Elected not to go with the Hemi pickup after talking w a lot of Mopar guys. The general theme was that it couldn't hurt but wasn't absolutely necessary. I have a plan B if new information comes my way though.... I am very...

Actually, I THOUGHT I was getting a 3-bolt cam. Total face-palm moment. Now I'm not sure this cam will work for me. 7000rpm and a HV oil pump seems like a bad idea to me with a single bolt and just the drive pin to handle all that torque. Hmmm. Going to call Crower today and see what they say...

I like that process. Thanks for sharing. :)

Never heard much about sulfur in motor oils. Rear end lube yes but not motor oil. In any case, the zinc and phosphorus levels have been steadily declining too ever since the EPA determined that zinc poisons catalytic converters. Neat that they can reformulate our oil to try & kill the old cars...

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I also got a bottle of ZDDPlus to add to my break-in oil. I plan on using 5W-40 diesel oil for break-in and 15W-40 after that. My father-in-law says he prelubes his motors with a speed handle so he can feel the pressure build up. Says he spins until it comes out...

So I got my motor on a stand and I'm all set to slide my cam in. New cam bearings are in & cam spins smoothly. I have a bottle of Clevite Bearing Guard I was planning on using liberally on all my rod & main bearings and thought it'd be good stuff for cam bearings as well. Good idea or not? Also...

True enough. There are still a few things that machines can't do......yet.

About to start assembling the short block when time permits. I'm beginning to think I should've just paid the shop the $400 they wanted to do it for me. Working full time plus a bunch of overtime makes it hard to find time to get to it....not to mention everything else that goes along with...

Thread seal on the bolts? Oops. Didn't know anything about that. Is that really important or just a precaution?

Nice system. I'm about to have duals made for my Newport. I was thinking of 2.5" to the mufflers and 2.25" tails with an H-pipe......and then I saw these: http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/ultra-flo-welded-x-mufflers and started thinking maybe I could use one of these as an X-pipe instead of 2...

That black Charger is a damn cool build. Love that car. I suspect the 440 rods are a bit stronger than 383 rods. I also figured the Eagle rods would be a better, safer choice for when boost is added to the equation. Factory heads with unknown history and mods seemed a little sketchy to me and...