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If you have the steering wheel on and in it's keyed position, and is down within 1/8" of the housing, it is on as far as it will go. How about this........Are you sure the snap ring on the shaft is in its place? Maybe the shaft is not down far enough in the column. Did you take it apart?

I'm not sure I'm following you on what you mean by the "lever keeps popping out of place" but the springs all look to be in good condition. I am wondering if the screw on the left is the correct one? Is that what keeps loosening up? The correct screw will have a shank that when tightened down...

Looks like either of those might work. For sure better than the single pot unit. They look like drum brake cylinders but I see they mention both applications.

The bowl height is about 3". The lid and bail adds another inch. That is where the problem arises. If you had a flat lid without the bail you could probably get by without cutting it down. Plenty of ways to skin that particular cat but I used what I had. Like I said, no good leadership for you.

The stock set-up has the binary switch mounted to the top of the drier that the power wire goes thru that monitors the freon pressure. When it detects low pressure, it will not send power to the compressor. The only time delay that I am aware of is mounted to the bottom of the heater box but...

I guess it could be a broken wire or bad firewall connection somewhere then. With a non standard setup, it could be most anything. Research is inevitable.

Are you sure you are not low on freon? If so, the binary switch on top of your drier will tell the compressor not to start.

I don't have any good leadership for you but my 60 Dart had the same brake setup as your 61 Newport with the dual cylinder front brake system and the bellows booster. I fought with those brakes for a few years trying to get them to play nice but had no luck getting them adjusted to my...

A good radiator shop can pressure test and or repair your heater core if needed.

I dug out a spare door belt molding I had. I measured the opening for the clip. It measures .28" (just over 1/4") I ordered a few of them that appear to be just under 5/16" wide and will fit a 3/16" hole. I will let you know if they work. Probably be a week or so. Wish me luck.

Thank you for the update! So, I guess the 3/8" measurement they show on their ebay auction is not correct. I am glad I had enough of the original clips when I did my car years ago. I think I still have an extra door belt molding. I am gonna visit my local paint store to see what they can come up...

You tried them and couldn't make them work huh? I have not tried them but they show to be 3/8" wide that is the same as the factory clips but didn't have the 3/16" mounting. I hope you didn't drill your holes to 1/4" in vain. I saw these black clips that look the same as the white ones and...

The 65 Fury didn't use those type of clips on the belt line molding. They use a 3/8" wide plastic clip with a push in center peg in a 3/16" hole. I have not found anyone that makes them. The closest clip that will work is this one. But, you have to drill the holes out to 1/4" to make them...

I used SMS in the past also but heard they went out of business. You could try these guys. HoodHingeRepair.com – Classic and muscle car hood hinges repaired to better than factory original

I hear ya.........They call them the "Golden Years". I'm pretty sure they got there colors mixed up. More like "Rusty"

It is a captured nut that spins.

Here is a driver class one with a high price on it on Ebay. The base is PN: 2579607 https://www.ebay.com/itm/266368911379?

Yes. The correct base will have the locating pin. Here is a pic of the correct base for a 66 383 hood. Mine was cracked and I sold it a few years ago. Good luck finding a usable one.

I have a coffee can full of old body plugs. May have the one you need. Got a pic of it or the size?

I'm guessing 66 Fury uses a wider belt molding if a 1/2" clip fits inside. 65 Fury has a 3/8" wide belt molding.