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Thanks, I was told it was a newport, just didn’t know the exact year.... I took a chance and bought it.... mine is a 68.

the frame is upside down, obviously, but these ar the best I can do... any idea of the year/ model?

Hi guys, I purchased a stub frame from a guy a couple of years ago because it has the spindles for disc breaks... that being said, I’m not sure of the year of the frame. There is a bumper attached to the frame that might help identify it, but I am wondering if there is a casting or stamp...

I have a 68 Newport with a couple of 1 inch tears in the vinyl hardtop... I don’t want to replace the top, now, I just want to keep the weather out and such out of it... the car is not a trophy and looks good with the original top, I just want to try and prevent more damage... any ideas on what...

Pull the lights out, use a test light to make the ground to the bulb housing and see if the bulb lights when the break is applied.... go from there.... most likely it’s a ground issue.

Is it bad, or dangerous, to leave the two ammeter wires connected for long periods of time?.... aside from not being able to monitor charging etc?

Ok, here is the current situation.... today, I opened up the distributor cap.... a pertronix unit, and switched out the springs inside the rotor.... the unit came from the manufacturer with their middle of the road tension springs installed.... I swapped out those ones for the softer springs...

Ok, here is the current situation.... today, I opened up the distributor cap.... a pertronix unit, and switched out the springs inside the rotor.... the unit came from the manufacturer with their middle of the road tension springs installed.... I swapped out those ones for the softer springs...

I tore the carb apart, today.... float is exactly to spec... accelerator pump and parts are functioning perfectly. I drove the car after warming it up, drove several miles, then went to town and drove the 30 mph in the village.... manually shifted into 2nd... made no difference... still...

Thanks guys, some good things to look at.

ill try to keep it short.... 1968 Newport...383 2bbl... I have a hesitation at slow speed, 25mph and under.... and also when I make a turn, at slow speed (as I turn, and start to accelerate, the motor stumbles) any ideas.... I have new gas tank, fuel sending unit, fuel lines to the carb, new...

Are you using a vacuum advance or mechanical advance pertronix?did it have much effect on your base timing spec?

Parts will be here tomorrow,!!!!

After looking at my parts manual, it looks like it might be fairly easy. I had the front suspension apart to recondition the front brakes, a couple weeks ago, and wish I had done the steering and suspension while it was apart.... dumb mistake.

Thanks, that’s what I was thinking.... sucky job to have to do.

question.... 1968 Newport.... are the front lower ball joints removable from the steering arm, or are they a non removable part of the steering arm that requires the replacement of the arm?Thanks.

Just looking for as much input as I can get.

You called it, with just one word.... everyone I deal with, are from the racing world.... but almost none of them are Mopar guys.... only one guy is an old Mopar tech.... so when I have questions as to why my timing might be so high, its just because this kind of modification is kind of foreign...

I know my question was ridiculous, but I was confused as to the line that goes up and through the trunk.... thought the lines might be redundant.... I’ll make sure both lines “breath”... thanks for your reply.