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It's a shame to me that 16" wheels are losing their popularity because to me they seem like the perfect size for a mid to full size car. Back in the '90s everything from a mid-size on up had them. My Sable wagon and my Odyssey minivan both have them and they are ideal. I was surprised when my...

Tires would be your preference. I don't prefer any particular brand. Just don't get the cheapest thing you can find since they probably won't be very good for handling and won't last long.

Well, speaking as someone who hot-rodded a 4-door 1968 New Yorker when I was 17, I can honestly say that the 4-door is a good looking body style and it will look good with some nice chrome or aluminum rims and some white letter tires. I wouldn't recommend 17 or 18 inch rims, I think that will...

Seems like most torqueflites I've had shifted a little quicker and snappier from 1 to 2 than from 2 to 3. I never really thought about it before, but since you mentioned it, I believe that to be true. I would think it's just a characteristic. Ideally both shifts would probably be the same.

Geez. Bleche-Wite is what I always used back in the day. It worked great! Probably contained some toxic chemical or something they don't want to use anymore.

That idler comes off as an assembly. The bolts are REALLY long and likely to break if you are not careful. I don't think the pulley was really meant to be taken off, but you probably could if you needed to.

That's an old-timer's trick. It might do some good. Engine should be running at about high-idle speed. Just trickle the water in so you don't stall the engine. And don't hydro-lock it!

Fantastic job!!

All my '68 Chryslers have plastic trim around the bottom of the seats. Could these seats possibly be from some other year?

It looks like the wheel cover you bought on Ebay has something attached to it, like a trim ring. I've never seen that type of arrangement. It's like it has an adapter to fit a 16" wheel.

It's a 15" wheel (you can see the 15 on the tire).

Most of today's SUVs, EVs and trucks weigh at LEAST as much as a '78 Newport. More important is finding a shop that has a mechanic experienced on older cars. Putting shocks on is pretty straight forward, but some aspects of working on these older cars is really foreign to kids today.

As for the weight I would think 10w30 or 10w40 is what you want to use.

Couple of thoughts....I would not use a 160 thermostat, this is below factory stock of 180. Later on I think they recommended 195 even for these cars that came with 180 stock. Also, use a hot rod/classic car oil like Amsoil rather than racing oil. Racing oil is meant to be changed frequently...

Genuine MoPar parts is the way to go if you can get them. Mobileparts will have these as well as NOS aftermarket parts that garages used to use back in the day. What he won't have is new Chinese stuff of questionable quality. Also, Craig is a wealth of information. Not slighting anyone else...

Just my 2 cents, but I don't recommend an electric fuel pump unless you have a fuel pressure gauge, fuel pressure regulator, and some kind of automatic shut-off in case of an accident like modern cars. My reasoning--the same reason why they don't use them in NASCAR.

It's not pressurized like an EFI fuel system. If you take apart the fuel line while the engine is off you will just get a dribble of fuel. The filter in the tank I believe is just a sort of cloth bag and I've never heard of them varnishing up. The inline fuel filter is mounted in a rubber...

I don't think it's the search-tune radio, looks like the stereo radio. 1968 was the first year for stereo in a Chrysler. Our New Yorker has that also. It doesn't have EVERY option, as there is no tilt/tele steering wheel and it doesn't look like it has Autotemp or the auto headlight dimming...

From what I can see your car is pretty well loaded up with options. How about a picture of the dash and engine?

Your car has the New Yorker leather seats which I don't think were available on the 300. My New Yorker has the same seats. Nice find!