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The rotor and cap had an impact mark on them. I replaced them at the time and reset the timing. It retarded the timing ten degrees from the impact. I think it just took some time for that bushing to get out of tolerance where I was able to finally notice all these problems. Lesson learned...

Probably a tool made for it I’m sure instead of me making a mess of it. On to give more money to summit!

Or threaded rod and plate and use the block as support to back it out?

Now who has a good trick removing that. Thread it and use a slide hammer?

Funny uncle Tony’s garage just had a video about this. Probably should’ve watched that earlier!

Well that distributor whack was the culprit when the clip came off. Intermediate shaft is worn out and bottom of the distributor gear. Put the cap 180 out and it moved to number 4 cylinder. Tower bushing and shaft and gear on the way.

Leak down was at tdc. Going fishing today. Definitely something to look at. Have a mini bore scope coming to take a peak in there before I crack open the motor. I'll keep the updates coming.

Also ran it with vacuum booster line disconnected and spraying carb spray directly into that runner to see if it came to life and no go. Was trying to solve it without pulling the intake first but I think I’m getting to that point now.

Edlebrock rpm air gap for the intake. Running the motor with the wire off of number 7 the plug doesn’t even get wet with fuel. Header tube on 7 doesn’t even steam water when running. Coolant looks good. No bubbles in the radiator when I did the leak down. Gone over the firing order so many...

Engine 400 based 512 -11 to 1 compression about 5k miles since built 600hp 700tq at flywheel Prosystems venom vx 850 carb phantom 340 fuel pump comp cams hydraulic roller trick flow heads msd 6al mopar distributor no vacuum advance 8* initial 36* total Engine has developed a miss on...

I’ll start a thread with what I’ve done with it. It was fun. They’re definitely unique cars that can be made to have some real fun with. You just don’t see them anymore. Here’s a funny video don’t mind my dental work! Blocked a few too many fists and sticks with my face in my ice hockey...

Not sure if we can post a video on here but it sounds great.

Here’s a shot of my routing. If I did it again I would’ve bought a better quality tubing like stainless bro’s. The eBay stuff is okay but the thickness consistency of the bent tubing varies a bit so it’s easy to blow through with your tig if your humming along and then it all the sudden gets...

I asked TTI about that and the reason they don’t list it is they’ve never been able to get a 74+ to see if it fits. By building my own I believe the issue will be the routing over the rear axle. By the looks of their photos the shock location was shifted outward for our model years. Their...

If any of you are interested in using the hooker headers for our model years there are some mods you need to make to the shifter linkage to clear the header. I can post some pics of all the gotchas I ran into building this thing. Also the 440 source 6 quart pan will not clear our center link...

So I’ve been building up a 75 royal Monaco coupe. 400 now a 512. I went with the hooker headers for it and made my own 3” exhaust out of 2 stainless exhaust kits off eBay. Lots of work but doable on our boats. I can get some full photos later if you’d like to see as far as clearance and routing.

Oh I was asking about their 1 7/8” c body headers for a b engine. 400. They’ve never tried fitting them on the 74+ years. Hooker headers say they work 68-77 years. Just was wondering if anyone has found if TTI’s do work also for the later years. Maybe they need me as a lab rat to see if they...

Have any of you tried putting their 1&7/8” b block headers on a 74 and later Monaco? I called them and they’ve never tried fitting them to a 74+ car so they did not know. I see hooker has some listed for the 74+ and the earlier models. Have a 512 in there. Just looking for a larger option.