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I like the idea but I'd be concerned about moisture getting trapped and causing corrosion on top of the new piece. Just a thought..

My advice is to drive it some more and keep track of the leak amount. My 383 will leak a tiny bit (2-3 small drops) after a winter slumber then stop completely.. Seeing you have only driven 100 miles, maybe give it a little more time/mileage to see what you are up against. I've seen too many...

Do you have any junkyards you can access over there? That would be one way to try and find those plugs. I did see some things on ebay. You could take a look and see if a seller will work with you to match one up. I have found that sellers may have things available that are not listed.. good luck...

You can also get the engine up to temp on a warm day and then disconnect the wire to the electric choke. The coil in the choke should have enough underhood heat to keep the choke open. Then you can see if it is still stalling with the electric connection omitted. Other than that, check anything...

You said it started no problem but now requires fuel to be dribbled in. How long did it run before this new problem developed? The hole in the tank, has that been taken care of? What is the condition of the tank (debris getting into EFI system)? What is the fuel pressure up top with key on...

From experience (too much, actually), don't trust new parts. But, assuming they check out and your timing is on, recheck your points and throw a vac gauge on it to see if you now have a leak after intake removal and reinstall. Good luck

I have two tuneups-in-a-can - one being TKG-3 for Ford 6 cylinder and TKC-1 for Mopar big block. Both unopened. See pics for condition. I also have an LA throttle bracket. Never used. It had a stamp that said "360" on it. Asking 50 for the TKC-1, 25 for the TKG-3 and 40 for the bracket +...

How is the ground for the blower motor? With the car off, has the wiring been checked for short to ground? Can you check for a short on the fan (from power input to fan case)? You can also put your meter in place of the fan to see what the voltage is and if the fuse is still getting warm when...

Perhaps see if Sixpactogo's advice applies here. Bad fan clutch out of the box? Maybe take it off and see if the temp goes up to the rated 195 temp? I've only seen fan clutches cause overheat issues, not what you are seeing. Looks like you have eliminated the gauge at this point. Anyone else...

Gauges lie.. let us know what the digital thermometer says. I would be surprised if it reads low. Does it run well? Have good heat? If so, more than likely gauge or sender. I had a flaky ground cause a temp gauge to spike before I caught it. I did what you did; purchased a few stats and boiled...

Wow.. Nice fix there. Thanks for sharing.

I have looked through three manuals (64 Imperial, 65 Mitchell and 64-71 Chilton's) and none mention how to adjust. Only disassembly, re-assembly and installation. Maybe it is like a clutch pedal adjustment where there is a tiny bit of free play so the pedal is not engaging in the all the way up...

Looks like the example Imperial has water leaking to the interior. That is a big C body fail and a common one at that. I don't see the paisley roof as a fail though; I like that Chrysler wasn't afraid to step outside of the box and try different things.

Good catch there. Any part numbers on there to see what they are? Amazing what you run into working on old anything. Makes us all better troubleshooters. Keep us posted if the new parts fix it.

There are a lot of "data collectors" out there as I call them. They act interested to get your phone, address, name etc etc., then ghost you. Selling online used to be fun and semi lucrative. Not anymore. The miscreants (again) have ruined everything. I gave away something for free on CL last...

Welcome to the forum. Then and now pics would be cool to see! You might have better luck posting the wanted section of the FCBO Marketplace. Good luck!

I'd say that is close enough to see where the rotor was pointing. It has to at least be in the ballpark. Was the rotor anywhere near #1? Was the distributor touched at all?

Based on what you've given us, how about trying to start without #1 plug wire hooked up and see what it does? You can also grab the belts and turn the motor if need be. Won't be easy but it can be done. This is not the worst way to see how much play is in the chain as well. I have done it this...

Last week? So there must be more pics! Would love to see more. : )

Did you check with a straight edge prior to application? Maybe the panel was that way originally? Maybe it needs a couple of hot/cold cycles to even out. I am not sure how far I would go to remedy that. Unless the German inspection requires panel checks with a straight edge to pass. : )