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Just a thought @Turboomni will a 3/8 fuel line with return be required for this setup? Been watching this and other build threads with great interest. I have a 511 stroker block ready for heads, cam selection.

My Canadian 68 Monaco 383 is turquoise.

I suggest calling Bill Richardson in VA. Google Mopar Mecca. He built my poly stroker and he can will recommend or even supply a carb setup for you.

I just serviced mine and ready to go back under the wagon. Contrary to yours being low I sucked out 7 pints so someone must have added along the way. It only calls for 4.

Gas mileage matters if it’s your daily 75 mile commuter which I doubt many of us do. For me kicking in the secondaries on a nicely calibrated 4 barrel is part of the classic program. I love efi on my Harley and my truck but they came that way.

It should look like this one.

What he said, plus you will want to take the steering column apart and ground off the nub from the column shifter, putty it over and paint to make it look like an original floor shifter column.

This is the 1411 calibration kit

Good point. It may be completely different story with an automatic. Obviously Carter saw a reason.

Yes thanks I failed to mention I tried the middle hole but it didn't change anything.

Been reading here lately where guys are having good success with their eddy's and have been recommending them and that's great. However it prompted me to share my recent experience with one of these. I don't have alot of past experience with eddy carbs but have learned alot recently due a...

Ditto to TTI and Dynomax. Nice rumble at an idle but quiet going down the road.

Yes as a carb tuning novice the kit came in handy. It includes a few different jets, rods, and springs. The Edelbrock manual is straight forward for part and wide open throttle setup, but when it comes to the springs it's guess n by golly.

I am going through this right now with the same 1411 carb which most say is too big for a small block but the head work etc my engine builder claimed 750 cfm was needed. Experimenting with timing and found 13 deg to be optimum. Also jetted it down a notch and changed metering rods accordingly...

Thanks I plan on giving it a good run this year. Should be able to form an opinion at some point and if it causes me too much grief, I still have the old parts and the torque shaft bracket is still there.

Yes however it's threaded all the way in, that combined with the additional spacer on the back makes it rigid. Only concern is the orings could fatigue over time.

Only 800 miles so far and no problem. Maybe I will find that out at some point. The TO bearing came with a spacer that seats right against the tranny front housing so it will never move backward.

I know you specifically mentioned you didn't want to go the hydraulic route but I sure have no regrets. One flex line from the master to the bearing, eliminate the over center spring etc. Admitedly there was some dicking around with MC mounting and pedal travel but it really worked out well in...

Affirmative on the 3.23. I posted the same thing here a couple years ago and took the advice. At 65 I'm running at 2500 rpm with the 4 speed. Auto might be a bit different.