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Stainless generally uses band clamp instead of the u bolt clamp that smashes the pipes together.

How are you going to remove the bottom row of head bolts with the exhaust manifold in the way? The heat shield is held on with the head bolts. Drill baby drill! You are doing the right thing to remove it. One time I had to drill out the entire thing to remove the manifold. Next time just...

Don’t beat the headers, then they will leak. Get quality spark plug wires, or heat wrap for the wires. Thermo-Tec 14250 Thermo-Tec Spark Plug Wire Heat Shield Sleeves | Summit Racing Years ago I bought stock replacement “standard ignition“ wires which should be good quality, and they didn’t...

The resonators are under the rear seat, the muffler is in the tailpipe. Here is the Accurate LTD exhaust page on it. (see option box below) -70-74 383/440 Big Block Complete Exh

Agree above. looking closer at the photo that 41806 flange with a flat face on jegs has threaded holes in it which won’t work. You could drill them out if enough meat around them So you can use nuts and bolts. the 51002 with studs in it doesn’t look right.

Here it is on Jegs, and it 2 1/4” just like the log manifold. Dynomax 41806: Exhaust INTERMEDIATE PIPE - JEGS High Performance

Those center dumps and the steering box could be a problem. The 1964 and older steering box was further back in the car and the center dump is what they used.

Dynomax mufflers sound good.

Do you have an oxy/acetylene torch? Then heat the nut to a dull orange and let it cool for a few minutes, then wire brush it and spray it, the nut will come off easily. Doesnt need to get bright orange. The studs are 3/8” and good quality. I reuse the originals plenty of times. Use anti...

Wire brush the rust off the exposed threads and soak it first. 6 point sockets are the best bet. Some can be hard to get to.

Looks like idiots worked on your car, they added 4-5” of adapters at the front, another 2” added at the rear, then they scrunched the pipe at the rear. If you remove all that garbage from the End of the head pipe to the start of the tailpipe there is plenty for Odom for a muffler. It is quite...

Leave it as it is and consider it a blessing! When they get loose the can clatter like bad engine noise and everyone will stare in parking lots. Your car should be able to start and run just fine in cold weather without it. Mine do.

3/8 x24. It takes a 9/16 Try a nut, but if the gasket is burnt from the missing nut it will have to come out of there, you can torque the nut as tight as you can and it will still leak.

All 1970 383 2bbl B and E bodies came with a log RH and HP LH manifold. They didn’t seem to hurt anything. I don’t know what size pipes they had bolted to them. They only had single exhaust on those engines so it was a Y pipe. Could have had a larger LH flange and pipe.

2532464 is for 68 383 2 bbl RH. 2998XXX exhaust manifolds start in 1970. I don’t see your exact number

JDX, 1970 and newer had a cast “wheel”. The shaft went front to back in the manifold. Top photo 1968 had a stamped sheet metal piece. Blue ports is missing, but that doesn’t make it leak. 1969 and older has the shaft going side to side like this picture. Bottom photo If a car is missing...

One is the stop for the travel. One is the pivot shaft for the heat riser. It can leak there, it is a shaft and bushings with no seals. Move it up and down and see if it’s loose, or rattling. Carefully feel around it with a cold engine running to see if you can feel exhaust leaking out...

Help us by telling us the year of your car or engine, and better yet the casting number from the manifold. Looks like a 68 but let’s not guess.