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Welded nut, the heat helps it let go. I have always turned those sleeve nuts red with heat before I try to remove them. Since you have the length to work with I would pack a little anti seize copper grease in the sleeve before welding the nut on.

Neighbors, haha, that why I am being cremated, no neighbors. I love dumb asses that buy a house on weekends when the highway traffic is minimal, then complain about their poor choice. There is a downgrade out back of my house 150 yards, state route constant jake or droan from straight pipe...

Got a picture of any of the spark plugs?

I think some adjustments and you will be good

I have to agree with both above. Cats do not reduce a problem engine. You would be far ahead spending the cat money on a Air/fuel ratio guage. A rich, sooty exhaust is not going to be fixed by a cat. The catalytic converter with try to keep up when new, but will become overwhelmed and start...

That's better than my lint trap screen, thanks. All of those holes go to water on a big block. I would retap to next larger size, heli-coils are great, but sealing against pressure is not their strong suit.

He's a salesman, just keeps talking, no need to listen, or actually say anything. He is good at what he does. He preserves cars and gives them a new life. If you pay attention to the show he has no problem answering questions of how to put the car back to original. The build cars he gets lost...

No room for bigger exhaust near the manifold and your getting away from packaging which is the only good thing about manifolds. So I would say, not much to gain, it cost very little to smooth out any bumps and weird turns so go for it. Max wedge manifolds are a different breed (basically a cast...

That's exactly what they were. Marketing 101. They look racy, they are only on HP models so they must work. Snake oil. Spend 1/2 hr-45 min with a die grinder and some good iron cutting bits and you can make your logs work just as well.

No, they still dump exhaust pulses into a common chamber from different directions, that is how to kill flow. Think of a header like a water wheel in a old 1800s grinding mill. There is usually a long run of viaduct that takes the width of the creek and narrows it down increasing velocity while...

I believe if you ported a stock set of log manifolds and opened the outlet flange to the same diameter as the HP manifolds you would see no noticable gain with the HP manifolds. Headers rule.:icon_fU::poke:

I get that, but the constant bashing of headers because people gorilla tighten a 3/8" or 5/16" bolts, along the same lines tightening lug nuts up with a impact and then calling the wheels junk. About 15-20 minutes with a die grinder with a quality bit/bits you can open up the exhaust pipe flange...

Don't tighten the hell out of the collectors, and use the factory studs and don't overtighten them either. I know your not overtightening them, so only tighten half of your "not overtightening". If your headers are leaking you did it wrong......period. Extrude hone is good money after bad...

Don't tighten the f_@? Out of the flanges and use hi temp red RTV. Pick a set you think will fit. Everything from 1957-1976 had basic layout, dimensions changed, starter, bell housing trans pan all similar.

Ahhh let the kid have a time with it. We have been there. Headers are not for racing, they just work. The crappiest headers will out flow a stock manifold by huge amounts at any rpm. With a NA car you need the exhaust gone.

You can't lose with headers. You will get benefits at all rpm, period. It will increase torque at low rpm increasing throttle response from cylinder scavenging. It will increase cylinder flow at higher rpm in a passing situation. Look at the exhaust on any new car/or girly pickup truck and you...

Free is good. Making it work is better.

Creative cutting:poke: If you keep the gas on and don't turn to sharp they never hit.

One word: fenderwell

Yeah headers what a PITA, exhaust manifolds are sooooo much easier.:rofl: