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Using an infrared temp gun, compare the temps of the exhaust manifolds at each exhaust port. If one is different than the rest, that cylinder is likely misfiring. You can also use a squirt gun and squirt water at each port, a 'normal' firing cylinder will immediately vaporize, a dead cylinder...

Honestly, if the old distributor is toast (and engine is out of the vehicle), I would just get a strap wrench or a pipe wrench and twist the housing back and forth until it breaks free and comes out. Make certain you get the distributor mount/adjusting plate from the old one as not all...

The gear is plastic (nylon) and will break but is easily replaceable. Picture of what you are working with would be helpful.

So, it looks like you are in a win-win situation. Your valve covers are the hard to find style and look to be in great shape. You can likely sell them for more than enough to buy another (later version) ones. Yu might even be able to find a set without the hole punched out. jus sayin.....

All I can say is 120+. Many years back, I had my Fury convertible at a Mopar show hosted by Charlotte Motor Speedway. They let us on the trach to make some laps for pictures but we were supposed to keep our speeds limited to 55mph. That was a joke, but I did try. A guy in a Hemi Road Runner...

Neither of those diagrams are for a 65 Fury. I'll have to see if I can find my 65 FSM.

Why can't you just use the oil pan drain plug? jus sayin....

NOPE

The new mount is for a manual transmission. The other mount has the "bracket" built in - it's part of the mount itself. You can likely make an adapter plate if you absolutely have to use the manual trans mount.

The top lever will move easily, especially with the engine not running. You must have this lever at the transmission connected to the carburetor throttle linkage and properly adjusted.

All good. That is what I see in my catalog. I have a new set of L2355F-030 (I got 40 yrs ago). It is a pretty heavy piston compared to some of the racing stuff. jus sayin....

Are you certain of the piston number? My 1978 catalog doesn't have any piston numbers past L2451F.

I have an old TRW catalog. I'll let you know something tomorrow morning.

Just enlarge the hole, it will not hurt anything.

If I remember correctly, my original 65 floor shifter had a separate lever and cable to engage Park.

I already had a big radiator in my Fury, so nothing changed there.

I think all big block 1965 727 automatics might have been slip yokes, but I couldn't say for certain. All I know is that mine was a slip yoke from the factory. Now, my 65 Belvedere (slant six auto) was not a slip yoke but was a flange style. jus sayin...

Header choice is limited to high dollar parts. I have a set of Schumacher Tri-Y headers on the tunnel ram engine. I bought a set of TTI long tubes to use with a blower motor I am building. Factory HP exhaust manifolds work well. You might try some of the 'Block Hugger headers', I have heard...

Noise reduction is more plausible than heat reduction. The exhaust cross-over is right there heating things up in the manifold. jus sayin.....

The mini starter terminals are on the side of the starter. You can unbolt the OE terminal thingie and discard. You can connect the cables and then bolt the starter in and you are golden. The conversion terminals offered just let you install the starter without connecting the cables first...