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I have seen "water wetter" work a few times. Funny, it's always been in small block Chevies. It's not a cure and shouldn't be used that way, but can be used as a band-aid. I've had great results using Thermocure.

I don't recall it, but with 5 bottles I would expect problems. I think the instructions say something like don't use more than 2 bottles. When people use stuff like a leak stopper as a on-going, "permanent" fix, they're just asking for more problems. We all know those people who just continually...

Since it has been mentioned, I will say that I have used Bar's products and BlueDevil in the past as a temporary fix. Both did the job for a few months until I was able to address the problems, one of which was a failing water pump gasket. If you need a little time these will get you down the...

As far as I know the system should effectively shut down if under pressure or over pressure. Maybe not on a car this old. But it could be that you had the system so close to being over pressured that a temp change pushed it over. Get a manifold set or find someone who has one. That's really the...

Have you actually put a manifold low/high pressure gauge on it? Or are you just squeezing the trigger on one of the "refill" cans?

I'm 99% sure that cost was the reason for OEMs getting away from copper radiators, just as you listed in point #5. Also, copper has a greater conductivity than aluminum, which means all other things held equal, a copper radiator will out perform an aluminum one. The same applies to electrical...

Another vote for re-core. I've had a hand full of radiators re-cored over the years (same local shop) with zero issues after.

Project Farm just made a video on that stuff.

Your link has it available through advance. I get mine at Oreillys but they rarely have a full case so I just get them to order a case for me. Unless something has changed all of the VR1 oils are ~1400 ppm.

I don't know about that specifically. It's marketed as a "race" oil that can be run on the street for short periods. I think they recommend 2500 mile change intervals.

It does. I run VR1 synthetic 10w-30 in my Chrysler. It's available in 10-30, 20-50, 30, 40, 50, 60 weights. Conventional and synthetic.

As cbody67 said, there are minimum temps that need to be reached with fluids, and there are upper limits that you need to stay under (I think 250-275). If you know that you are approaching the upper limit regularly then you could throw on an oil filter/cooler adapter like this one plus a cooler...

It means the seals are out (it's bad), so it needs to be replaced. It will only get worse. It's a pretty easy job, and a good time to do other coolant system maintenance like flushing the system, replacing the thermostat and rubber hoses.

Clean it and dry it off, then let it sit for a day or two. You will see if it's coming from the weep hole (bottom side of water pump). If it is, then it's time to replace the water pump. I suggest a "stock" or O.E. type replacement.

Has the water pump been replaced? It could be coming from the weep hole. Just watch it. With the air currents it can be a little tricky to track down the source.

If you decide to use a "flush" product I recently used Evaporust Thermocure and recommend it. I used it in my Jeep 4.0 that would run hot on the highway and I could see clogging of the tubes. I ran 2 bottles of Thermocure through for 4-5 days and then flushed all of that out with about 5 drain...

If the original is copper then $300 is not bad, and actually probably on the cheap side. If the original did the job right, then I would just re-core and be done.

Since you guys are talking about flushing/cleaning your water jackets has anyone tried evapo-rust thermocure? Summit Racing® EVAPO-RUST THERMOCURE SUM-TC001

Thanks Ross, I appreciate your level of detail. Looks like this wont be getting done this weekend. I'm going to order the proper cage nuts and hope I can get them in without pulling the radiator. Saylor, I looked at some of those server rack cage nuts at the hardware store and while I think...

Guys I bought a fan shroud from Davescuda and I'm looking to install it this weekend but I can't find any specs/examples of how to mount the brackets to the radiator. I assume some type of cage nut, but I can't find any examples/specs of what will fit the slots properly. If anybody can help me...