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I have not yet gotten around to replacing the headlight switch.

I had a similar problem with my car. All the rear lights were dead. It turned out they are all connected by a solder joint in the trunk, in front of the driver's tail light. That joint had cracked and failed. Squeeze it the right way, and I had lights. I looked at the wiring diagram, and...

Either you're currently set near TDC on the exhaust stroke, or someone has disturbed the way the wires are plugged in on the distributor cap. You have to locate where the #1 wire is plugged in on the distributor cap, and make sure the rotor (metal end) points to that on the Compression stroke...

You have to pull the cluster to get at them?

Is all that light supplied by just the two bulbs under the brow, or are there additional bulbs inside the gauge cluster? How do you get those brow light fixtures out, to change the plastic lenses and bulbs, and paint the reflectors? Mine looks like a haunted house.

This was correct. It's in a body cavity behind the kick panel. I also found the source of the original problem, which was no running lights in the rear. Power for them goes through a black wire. (Which is +12V, not a ground). From the kick panel, it goes aft to the trunk. It's first stop...

That connects my instrument panel to the rear body lighting harness. 1970 300. There's a 6 cavity plug that carries the rear tail/stop/marker/ back up lights. The manual shows a drawing of the instrument panel end. There is no drawing of the body harness, only a schematic. Next to the plug is...

My HVAC and radio are in total darkness. Maybe that bulb, if there is one, is dead. Anyone know how many bulbs should be there?

Time to break out the Simple Green and Spray Nine....

...... are dim, on my 1970 300. It's really hard to see the speedometer. I see a couple small lights under the brow that shine on the speedometer. Are there any bulbs inside, or behind the needle? Could be that the bulbs just have a crust of 50 years of dirt. Battery voltage is good, at...

I wasn't far off. The OTC 6497 looks like that.

What is that, an OTC or something? The Harbor Freight one won't do ;) ?

I was scared of it, but I think I see now that both the input and output shafts have a master spline in the serrations. With that, there should be no way to do it wrong. Hopefully, the Pitman arm will pop off without too much of a fight.

Thanks for all the help. I might have seen a cluster removal procedure in the FSM. What you're showing looks like there are tabs in the bottom, and screws at the top. Pull the screws, rotate the top towards you, and lift up and away. I have a new headlight switch, the rear half of the car...

The headlight, dimmer, and flasher switches on my 300 are all acting up. How do I get them out, I assume pull the lower dash trim, and do all work from behind? Looks like switches are attached with screws?

I have one in all my cars. A great way to keep an eye on battery and charging operation. Also shows charging current being consumed by your phone, once you connect it. For that $12 price, it should be better quality. The cheap ones I use are about $6-$7, and they're still fine. Order a...

The ammeter is a gauge that measures current flow. The Needle responds because it's connected to a small auxiliary winding that senses current flow through the main conductor in the meter. The meter is manufactured as what one could describe as "shorted". the "in" and "out" terminals are...