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Iwould try backing off the rear brake adjustment about 1 turn and see what happens. Also did you accidentally swap the front/rear lines at the master cylinder? Just a guess.

I did this conversion on my 66 new yorker about 35 years ago. Grabbed all the parts off a 72 Newport. Worked very well. It would lock up the brakes when i stomped on the pedal. Now it's a different story, after the years long restoration the brakes need the leg of hercules to stop the car...

My guess would be the photo on the left but I would install it in the same orientation as the previous seal.

No, it was a 383 2-barrell. Last year for the 383.

As I recall you need to make two measurements: 1 measure from the pedal pivot point to the pedal. 2 measure from the pedal pivot point to the push rod attachment point. Divide #1 by #2.

Not on all of them. My dad's 71 Monaco didn't have one. A mechanic friend of ours came by with one (and a 12 pack of beer) he took off a car. I installed it and corners we could barely take a 35 we could cruise through at 55-60. Amazing difference. If you can find the complete setup + new...

Desert Valley Auto Parts has a booster from a 72 model c-body, $125. Should fit earlier c-bodies. One fit my 66. Try connecting it to the vacuum hose and see if it holds vacuum before installing. It will probably need rebuilding at booster dewey's shop. Easy to find him online. This is the...

A total guess here. Are the shoes on correctly? one has more surface area than the other. They could be swapped. I don't remember if the larger shoe goes in front or not. I swapped to disk brakes years ago so my memory is rusty.

I was contemplating using one of these: Right Stuff RPB8001: 8" Brake Booster Mopar Dual Diaphragm - JEGS High Performance They're for a b-body and will mount to the master cylinder. Anyone tried something like this? A source of new boosters would be very desirable. How difficult would it be...

I did a similar thing since the booster is made out of unobtanium. The hard brake pedal was due to the lines at the master cylinder being swapped. The front brakes must be connected to the front port on the master cylinder.

My solution was adding an electric vacuum pump. Got the idea from a motorhome site. The one I'm using is a Hella pump from a GM vehicle. Plenty of them in junkyards waiting to be crushed. Cost about $35, a lot less than buying new. I suppose it's a point of failure too, but it's spliced into the...

Go to Autozone or O'Rilleys and tell them the make and model. Very good chance they have them in stock. If not they can order them from their warehouse. $10-15 for 5. No confusion factor involved. Might as well buy the nuts to go with them too. Worked for me.

Was driving my daughter to school this morning. A RAV4 was in front of us with no brake lights except for the third light. It does have it's purpose.

The prop valves shown were also used on a 72 Newport. I snatched the disc brakes/spindles, etc off one years ago. Recently replaced the valve with one from a B body. Looked identical externally (minus 50 years of crud). You will have to do some brake line alterations if going from the single...

Another issue I've had. My issue was the sway bar mount on the driver side had elongated the hole in the frame mount so the bar would move up/down. Welded a couple washers in to shrink the hole back to the correct size. Ultimately swapped out the frame when doing the restoration.

Get rid of the left handed studs. 99% of mechanics are clueless about them. They will hammer on them with the impact wrench and stretch them to the point they will fail when you're driving down the road. I had this happen on my left front and when the wheel fell off the fender was destroyed...

I had Davea's problem. No matter what I did rear brakes wouldn't bleed. Then I bought a pressure bleeder. Pumped it up to 20psi. Was opening/closing the bleeder screws and saw a big puddle under the prop valve. Cranked really hard on the rear line connections at the valve. No luck, with brake...

I slid mine back far enough to get the lower arms out. What ever you do, don't nick the bar in any way. It creates a weak point and you stand a good chance of it breaking under load. And at the worst possible time.

"The Hankook is considered a very quite riding tire." Never been able to hear my tires over the MB Quart NA540 amp.:lol:

I would take it to a shop and have them look over the suspension. Doesn't usually cost anything. As for replacing control arm bushings your self, it's not a bolt on part. It requires a hydraulic press to remove and install them. Find a competent shop that knows what they're doing. I had a lower...