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If im hearing you guys right, the OP's car is a whole year newer than he thought it was, which is what i was expecting. Bonus!

That sure sounds too early for a build date?? Am i just confused??

Good article Big John!.. I really doubt the information was confidential lol. Did the info get left out of the parts books?? Anybody have a source for the tech bulletins they mention??

If you pull your back tire and you're seeing this, it's the older type that uses that tool; You should see this type on your '66 (or any '65 and later). Note the pic is after drum removal;

Those are used as a hub puller on '64 and earlier cars. The ones that have the nut and cotter key at the axle end. '65 and up Mopars did not use that style, AFAIK. On the later cars like yours, the drum is not normally frozen, just back off the brake adjustment fully and you can usually work...

Seeing how they did you, I think the next time I need something balanced, maybe I'd take some pix of the setup, then peel all the weights back off before I took it to them!! Another thing to remember.... you are balancing the wheel and tire obviously. If you broke down the bead and moved the...

I've seen some nasty ones, where you needed the bearing clamp to hold for removal. Pretty scary when they go....you wonder about the integrity of the bearing clamp. But I did all mine, axle and diff with that little press from HF. No problems. I doubt tapered axle makes much difference. I...

I rolled the dice and bought that unit about three-four years ago.... It paid for itself pretty quick... not for hobby stuff, but repairs on modern cars (many bad Ford/Lincoln FWD/AWD wheel bearings) that I would have had to pay a shop big bucks to repair. It has come in handy many times.

John, whats his application on the drums?? If im hearing you right, all those brake/wheel parts are `66 Newport except the drums and studs?? Thx, Lefty71

Hes gonna need one for the other side too. :poke:

Not a working site. This one?? WHEELS | Wheelsnow

From what I've read, you'll damage the hubs.... Hard to find for most of us, you better have a spare set on hand if your gonna try it that way. (my two cents). Best to slowly press the studs out, and press the new ones in.

Here's some info that may help.... Also, there are some write ups regarding this conversion over at FBBO. You may want to search there. For the swedge cutting, I used a tiny holesaw just big enough to slide over the existing studs....didnt have to cut or grind the studs at all otherwise. You...

I think you need a proportioning valve, correct for you application. Is this still full manual??

Seems like a perfect opportunity to put that raccoon/possum trap that everybody has laying around to good use. Maybe even throw it in a 5 gallon bucket and just stay clear of the top as you work would be a good safety solution.

:lol::lol::lol: 73Coupe said: ↑ Hubcaps cover just the center part of the wheel, or the hub area. Wheel covers cover that too, plus the rest of the wheel. stubs300 said: ↑ Semantics still. More than semantics. Hub cap wheel cover Things can be groovy without any coverings.....

Oh, I see. Since there was no "Centric" back in the day tho, I think your still looking at $50.00, since they're still aftermarket, unless you have original Budd? (or Bendix. did Kelsey-Hayes make rotors?) NOS units then the price would go up considerably to the person who relishes them.

More Information for CENTRIC 12163021 1969 PLYMOUTH FURY 6.3L 383cid V8 Rotor | RockAuto If theres any accuracy to this, id say $44.00. Certainly a different pic and # tho. HTH, Lefty71