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Rod was a little stuck, a little force and it drop off. I opened the switch and cleaned contacts. Works like new.

Forgot to reply, but I've found the problem. It was in ignition switch. There was voltage loss in switch, regulator saw too low voltage and hopped it up. I disassembled the ignition switch, cleaned contacts and it was fixed. There was nothing wrong with old alternator or voltage regulator.

Found the switch, it was more visible than I thought. How do I remove the rod from switch? Is this same as GM switch?

I have located some of my electrical issues to ignition switch. Most what I have found for sale, are for not tilt wheel, which my car of course has. So, what is difference between tilt or no tilt switch? And where I can find Switch for tilt wheel. 1973 Chrysler.

I have a same kind of problem. It charges 16+ volts at revs. I have changed 2 new regulators and new alternator. I've checked wiring, all ok, added grounding to alt and regulator. What am I missing? -73 T&C

Anyone? Found 1980 Aspen for donor. Will take intermittent wipers too.

Bump for is that all I need to get from donor car

So votes goes for original setup. Is there differences between early 70s or late 70s/80s cruises? Parts should be somewhat easy to find from Aspen here. I need vacuum canister with throttle cable, speedo cables, brake switch, cruise switch and wiring for these. What else?

My -73 T&C does not have cruise, but I'd like to have it. I have no experience how good and accurate those 70s cruises are. Should I find original parts or is aftermarket cruises easier or better? I both cases, I'd use Mopar original cruise switch in turn signal lever.

Where I could find these? 8-track stereo schematics at least.