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I don’t know much about the 413, but if you are talking about the red Newport in PA, that is a beautiful car.

Damper bolt = 2 quick shots with an impact gun and done. Chain cover bolts = make a muscle. BUT I'd still have a decent torque wench in the box, you never know when you may need it. I have the clicker type and even with the accuracy problems it is still good to know every bolt is done to the...

That's a great way of breaking tools, or having the breaker bar miss-aligned and rounding the bolt head. Harbor Frieght impact tool runs under $100, or rent one for free from Auto Zone.

Wait, if you put a marine 440 in a car, you go forward when the shifter is in reverse?

Or, use a human Jack like I did. Seriously, if you lift the car high enough, the straps hang down where you can slide the tank in. It’s the attachment of the J hooks the become tricky, so holding it in place is key.

Check this thread. My 70 Fury 2 with a little bit better HP @Tobias74 would have some helpful info.

I would have thought there would have been some tell tale sound or signs that would have alerted the mechanic, but even so, wouldn't have been his fault. Have the machine shop do an autopsy on the motor after its pulled to see if the seller pulled a fast one on you, but then again most old cars...

If you are going to remove the gear to work on it, do yourself a favor and remove the nut holding the pitman arm while still mounted on the frame. That sucker is torqued to 180 foot pounds and is a bear to do while flopping around the bench.

Obsessive Compulsive, lol.

Had no problems with mine, and it didn’t cost me a dime, all the parts stores rent them then refund your money when you return it. No need to buy a tool you will literally only use once, but I found it essential during the break-in.

I did this last year for the first time and it was nerve wracking to say the least. There is so much pre lube in that engine right now you really can’t mess it up especially if you use the drill method. One thing I would add, is rent a mechanical oil pressure gauge that screws into the oil...

I think your engine guy needs to fix this. There is no reason the dip stick opening should have been altered in any way. My re-builder put a simple rubber stopper in for transport. Normally that tube is press fit, but after it's removed you use a little RTV to prevent seepage, but now that...

Ah, perhaps not affiliated with the turbine car, but didn’t Chrysler build components for the Apollo project?

@odcics2, can you shed any light on this one?

My first car, 1970 Challenger vert was a 318, great engine. Breaks my heart every time I see a tribute R/T HEMI car that used to be 318. They are rarer now than any original HEMI car, lol.

So this runs cool without a fan?

Pulling an engine on gravel, carpet and plywood? Try in the back yard, in the winter, in the mud. Good times, lol.

No, actually, picked it up from my local Advanced Auto, they had them right on the shelf, I think it was about $25.

I used a carb plate, safest and easiest way to lift. It also works better with the leveler. What @Big_John said, more angle and lift the front about 22” and the motor and trans comes out easily. Of course, removing the core support and grille will help a lot as well.

ultimately, you will have to crawl under there and locate the VIN stamping just above the oil pan, as seen in the pic posted by Trace.