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Excellent work as usual. I've been thinking about doing something similar, only using the dash blank where the rear defog switch would go. I'm looking at some vintage gauges from a B body or maybe the rectangular ones from a '70 Imperial.

My original was seized solid and I thought I’d just replace it, but couldn’t find one anywhere that was the basic lower amp, round back, two pulley. Then I came across a local rebuilder and for $150 it‘s like new.

I remember these being reproduced recently, maybe from Van’s? You searched for Window switch - Vans Auto

What year, make, model? A couple of things I've learned is that bench testing outside of the car can damage the motor. @Big_John can probably explain better.

The green and black wire 2947230 if for the front dash speaker.

Wow, that’s great info, I wish I had known this back then. The FSM and any online sources were thoroughly confusing, they all mentioned the importance of that wire. After the missing wire, the frustration of getting the coil magnets over the shaft, and then ultimately not even hearing a...

I run though some gauge and wiring details here on my ‘70 300: Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible I agree, there are many experts here that have been through the same process, I doubt I could have gotten as far as I did with my build without this site, but it also helps to have a...

My fenders are still off so this is an easy shot to show the firewall side of the fuse block. Here is a pic of my ‘73 without the engine bay harness attached. You can clearly see the screw ends that fasten the box from the inside. Hope that helps.

LOL, I have had to actually make up new language while putting this thing back together. I like the idea of the wire, wish I had thought of that when I pulled the old fuel line out. Pushing from the front will involve removing the radiator again which I'm trying to avoid, but the hardest...

@bigmoparjeff that's what I was looking for! There is a nice access hole at the rear of the convertible frame, which made a lot more sense to slide the steel line into. I actually have three lines from different cars, one is about a foot longer than the other two, that that one might work. As...

I thought a rubber fuel hose would be a good alternative, but never mind, lol. Ok, so they all seem to enter at the same spot in the frame, but how do you snake that god forsaken steel tube from under the car, and get it to exit just before the LCA?

Yeah, that's about the same as my coupe, thanks. Since the stub is a bit different in the convertible, I thought it might take a different route.

I can't seem to find any info on how the steel fuel line is routed through the frame on a '70 convertible. This is the non-torsion quiet stub frame for '69-'70 verts, so I think the routing is different than the coupe. I know where the line exits in the front, just before the LCA, but can...

That cable you have pictured is only 12 inches long?

How much is the kit?

If you have an old one, have it rebuilt, that’s what I had to do. I found a local guy to do mine, $159 and it is good as new. Most of the parts stores only have the 60 amp or 100 amp square back design.

Great writeup thanks. I’m going through mine now, and this wire has me stumped, there is no evidence of it ever being there. It seams redundant since the field coil is screwed to the brushes where a wire also is directly attached to the solenoid. Your pic: My pic (those scratch marks on the...

I stuffed them in the shoulder belt straps along the roof while working on the inside of Challenger once so they wouldn’t get sat on or stepped on. Promptly forgot and since I didn’t use the shoulders it was a month before I found them. Fortunately I always had spares because I always locked...

That's what I would do. Then use a tap set, and put in the proper screw for re-assembly. Thanks for the heads up, I haven't ripped into my column yet.

Front bumpers are the same, ‘69-‘70. Rears are different.