Steel Fuel Line Through The Frame - '70 Vert

[Samplingman]

I can't seem to find any info on how the steel fuel line is routed through the frame on a '70 convertible. This is the non-torsion quiet stub frame for '69-'70 verts, so I think the routing is different than the coupe. I know where the line exits in the front, just before the LCA, but can someone post a pic of where it enters from the back or side of the stub?

Quick PSA here, remember to take pics of the line before you remove it, and put it back before you re-mount the stub or the engine, LOL.

 

[sixpkrt]

No sure if the fuel line going through a 70 Chrysler is any different that how it's routed on a 71 Chrysler. I would think they're the same.
Here's a couple pics from a 71...

 

[Samplingman]

Yeah, that's about the same as my coupe, thanks. Since the stub is a bit different in the convertible, I thought it might take a different route.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Do you think it's the same as my hardtop? Here's a few pics from the PO's Fire Hazard rubber line before I replaced it with Inline steel tubing from tank to carb.

View attachment 453259

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

That miserable red wire--running to the fuse block accessory terminal through a hole in the firewall with NO grommet and NO fuse in the wiring--ran to a fuel pump that was bolted to the frame under the passenger seat. All that awful crap is long gone. Long Gone. Just sayin'.

Finger is pointing to where the fuel line leaves the rocker and diagonals over the the frame. The hole is for the tubing clip.

 

[Samplingman]

I thought a rubber fuel hose would be a good alternative, but never mind, lol. Ok, so they all seem to enter at the same spot in the frame, but how do you snake that god forsaken steel tube from under the car, and get it to exit just before the LCA?

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Here's a non-isolated frame from a '67, which should be very similar or the same as your '70. I have no idea if the fuel line routing stayed the same from '67 to '70.

Jeff

 

[Samplingman]

@bigmoparjeff that's what I was looking for! There is a nice access hole at the rear of the convertible frame, which made a lot more sense to slide the steel line into. I actually have three lines from different cars, one is about a foot longer than the other two, that that one might work. As we all know, the convertible frame is shorter than the the coupe in 1970, but if the line enters at the rear instead of the side, then it needs to be longer. I'd still like to know how @Trace 300 Hurst was able to replace the Hurst line. @ayilar, any chance you could get a pic of how the fuel line enters the frame in your 300 vert?

 

[live4theking]

Here's a non-isolated frame from a '67, which should be very similar or the same as your '70. I have no idea if the fuel line routing stayed the same from '67 to '70.

View attachment 453373

Jeff

I would start at the front and run the line to the back. If yo have the same oval cut out just forward of the cross member you could bend a hook out of some mechanics wire to pull the fuel line over to that side to get it to exit the frame. When I replaced mine I pulled a piece of mechanics wire into the frame by taping it to the old line when I pulled it out.

You'll be doing a bit of fishing to get it lines up. Don't use to much foul language...

 

[Samplingman]

I would start at the front and run the line to the back. If yo have the same oval cut out just forward of the cross member you could bend a hook out of some mechanics wire to pull the fuel line over to that side to get it to exit the frame. When I replaced mine I pulled a piece of mechanics wire into the frame by taping it to the old line when I pulled it out.

You'll be doing a bit of fishing to get it lines up. Don't use to much foul language...

LOL, I have had to actually make up new language while putting this thing back together. I like the idea of the wire, wish I had thought of that when I pulled the old fuel line out. Pushing from the front will involve removing the radiator again which I'm trying to avoid, but the hardest method is usually ends up the easiest....

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I think I just fed it in, back to front, wiggled and jiggled, cursed, etc., but feeding in a "lifeline" when removing old stuff is certainly a good idea. With an engine in place, seems that back to front makes the most sense because you have room to work and curse.

I put a cap on the front of my tube so it wouldn't pick up crud as I fed it through.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I've done it both ways, from the rear is far easier, flashlight and a coat hanger and it comes right out, helps to have a helper to wiggle it to see it.

I did it with the engine is and on the car on the floor.


Alan

 

[live4theking]

LOL, I have had to actually make up new language while putting this thing back together. I like the idea of the wire, wish I had thought of that when I pulled the old fuel line out. Pushing from the front will involve removing the radiator again which I'm trying to avoid, but the hardest method is usually ends up the easiest....

What if you feed some string or twine into the front hole (a couple of feet worth) and then tried to suck it to the back end with a shop vac. Then you could securely tape it to the fuel line and pull it through.

 

[furious70]

Always good to tie a pull string to the old before it comes out...

 

[mr. fix it]

Not having the luxury of having the fuel line in the correct location when I bought my Polara. I was lucky enough to have bought a replacement stub frame that had one in place
I slipped the old line out with mechanic wire secured to one end giving me the lifeline to pull a new line into place.