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So, someone checked the serial number on my motor. Turns out it´s 68 motor (made in 67). And these turn 180 degrees. So at some point a former owner put this one in our 69 Chrysler. Which needs a 90 degrees motor.. Wrong motor for this car.

Contacts work perfect now John. And measured contacts after putting in new spring, checks out too. The motor does only turn 180 degrees.

70, Aha!

1969 Chrysler 300 Yes I know about the chance of damaging. That's why I put on these steel weighty clamps. The doors open without any effort manually btw?!

Just now I discovered why I probably keep having issues with the HH motor/switchplate and doors assembly. Keep getting power from “switchplate switch“ to motor, when that contact should be open. Motor gets hot etc.. I took the motor out of the car, and bench tested it. Works flawlessly. I...

Thanks for the replies guys. I got a tip for a little shop here in Rotterdam who make springs. It needed a little tweaking but it seems to function. HH motor goes back in the car soon, fingers crossed.

I did, nothing available this small.. Considering watch repair shops

Guys, the headlight doors where giving problems. Would not open anymore. Power to open and close the doors, and ground, to motor switch are as should be. So I removed the motor/switch assembly from the car, and it looks like this very tiny spring (10 millimeter or 0.40 inch) is the culprit...

How did you remove the motor/switchplate? Reading the manual It's not clear to me if the torsion spring will release it's energy. And if installation is easy after I've inspected/cleaned the motor/switchplate. The headlight doors will open and close, but sometimes the switchplate needs a little...

Allways!

You´re right guys, it is tricky business. I will crawl under the dash again after a well deserved holiday :)

Found the “blinker” problem guys. The red wire from the flasher to the directional signal switch connector, disappears in the thick wire harnass. When the harnass is moved, the problem happens.. I tie-ribbed the wire harnass in the right position for blinkers to work. Gonna see if it keeps...

First thing tomorrow!

I plan to do that too. Direct cables through the firewall instead of the bulkhead. Isn't the one on the backside of the Ammeter meant to keep things running when the Ammeter dies on the car?

Well guys it took awhile, pulled the complete dashcluster out to refurbish it. And tackle multiple electrical problems. The “flasher switch” was the problem. Very dirty contacts. A bit of sanding and cleaning solved that problem. Hazard lights all around! I did the same with the “fan speed...

That all makes sense John. When I start digging, I will check all these things. Thanks.

I didn’t remove the cluster yet, but did spend alot of time trying to understand the electrical diagram. And am pretty sure the problem is in the flasher switch, or the direction switch.

I will give that a try as well. There is another cluster on the way, anyway. With switch!