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Hello! I've owned my '65 Fury for about 8 years, but have not driven it much, mainly due to a long standing electrical issue. Background: Factory 4 speed car, originally a 383, now has a nicely built '70 440. Rust free Arizona body, rock solid floor, frame, etc, stock suspension, steering...

Hello! Here's the situation. Neither the temp or fuel gauge on my '65 Fury III worked when I got the car. I finally dug into it a few days ago, but have not had success. Here's a summary of where I am without going into excruciating detail about all the hours I've spend on trying to get...

Well, I think I nailed it. Spent another 3 hours today and ran grounds from the battery to the frame and the radiator support. That seemed to cure the ammeter. Spent another hour futzing with the lights...and burned out 2 more sets. So, I pulled off the bulkhead connectors (again), and ran...

Could a bad/corroded connection at the negative battery terminal cause the amp gauge to peg? I just remembered that I did remove the terminal once, and just pressed it back on with my hand to get the car started...I was in a hurry...

Fury - Floor switch is brand new, so I doubt that it's the issue. Chris

Big_John - The voltmeter did not appear to spike, although I was paying much more attention to the Amp gauge at the time. I can start the car and run it briefly tomorrow to see what the voltmeter does. Since the regulator is relatively cheap, I'll probably just replace it anyway, since that...

Then why would I be burning out headlamps? I'm not saying I don't believe you, I just have a few things going on that I'm trying to figure out. Thanks... Chris

KC - So does that mean that the gauge is bad, possibly? The only reason I think that the voltage regulator is bad is that it's showing an overcharge and I burned out 4 sealed beams. The bulkhead connector did have corroded connections, as I had mentioned, but I don't see any burnt/frayed...

Hello! As I mentioned in my post earlier today, I spent WAY more time today than I wanted to getting my low and high beams to work, but I did. The bulk head connections were corroded, so I spent an hour scraping them, and all was well. I also noticed after I buttoned everything up that the...

WE HAVE A WINNER!!!! Big_John, thank you! I checked that I had power going to the dimmer, then ran a hot wire to the high and low terminal in the plug. Same results - no low beams. Disconnected the lowest bulk head connector and ran a hot wire to the high and low terminals...and both worked...

Hello! I've been beating my head against a wall trying to get the low beams to work on my '68 300. Yes, I replaced the dimmer switch, no it didn't fix anything. The wiring is bone stock and appears to be in good condition. I ran temporary grounds to the bumpers and to the light housings, no...