barsteel
Member
Hello!
As I mentioned in my post earlier today, I spent WAY more time today than I wanted to getting my low and high beams to work, but I did. The bulk head connections were corroded, so I spent an hour scraping them, and all was well.
I also noticed after I buttoned everything up that the factory amp gauge started working. It had never moved before, but now it showed a charge, more so when I reved the engine.
Here's where it gets interesting...
One of the high beams was out so I replaced it. Worked fine. For a while.
I drove the car around for a while with the lights on. I parket it and checked the headlights again, and none of them worked, when all of them did less than an hour ago. I put a test light on each headlight socket and was getting current to both the low and high beams. Tested the sealed beamsj with a battery charge pack. Nothing. Burned out.
I put a volt meter on the sockets and it showed about 13.6 volts.
I got in the car and started it up and reved the engine...then I noticed that when I reved the engine, the factory amp gauge pegged at FULL charge. BURIED. I couldn't even see the needle.
Does that mean that my voltage regulator is bad?
One note...
Like an idiot, when I was cleaning the bulkhead connections, I did not disconnect the battery, and probably shorted across a few of the terminals, which may have shorted/grounded the voltage regulator and fried it.
The alternator is new. I have an aftermarket volt meter connected to the fuse panel, and it shows a little over 12V at idle and up to 14 or so at highway speeds.
Please help me figure this out. I thought I had everything nailed after 4 hours of work, now I'm kind of back at square 1.
I don't want to drive the car when it appears to be overcharging.
Thanks...
Chris
As I mentioned in my post earlier today, I spent WAY more time today than I wanted to getting my low and high beams to work, but I did. The bulk head connections were corroded, so I spent an hour scraping them, and all was well.
I also noticed after I buttoned everything up that the factory amp gauge started working. It had never moved before, but now it showed a charge, more so when I reved the engine.
Here's where it gets interesting...
One of the high beams was out so I replaced it. Worked fine. For a while.
I drove the car around for a while with the lights on. I parket it and checked the headlights again, and none of them worked, when all of them did less than an hour ago. I put a test light on each headlight socket and was getting current to both the low and high beams. Tested the sealed beamsj with a battery charge pack. Nothing. Burned out.
I put a volt meter on the sockets and it showed about 13.6 volts.
I got in the car and started it up and reved the engine...then I noticed that when I reved the engine, the factory amp gauge pegged at FULL charge. BURIED. I couldn't even see the needle.
Does that mean that my voltage regulator is bad?
One note...
Like an idiot, when I was cleaning the bulkhead connections, I did not disconnect the battery, and probably shorted across a few of the terminals, which may have shorted/grounded the voltage regulator and fried it.
The alternator is new. I have an aftermarket volt meter connected to the fuse panel, and it shows a little over 12V at idle and up to 14 or so at highway speeds.
Please help me figure this out. I thought I had everything nailed after 4 hours of work, now I'm kind of back at square 1.
I don't want to drive the car when it appears to be overcharging.
Thanks...
Chris