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Did you check to see if the linkage inside the trans is moving with the linkage outside the trans? If it's not linkage, you're likely looking at a pump issue, or possibly a stuck open pressure relief valve. Jeff

I had a similar issue with a '68 Newport. The trans pan was so full of clutch material that it completely blocked off the filter. I cleaned out the mess, installed a fresh filter and fluid, and the trans worked fine again, though I doubt that it would have worked well for very long. It wasn't...

If this is a car that was sitting for a long time, it would be a good idea to pull the oil pan to make sure the pickup isn't clogged up with junk. It's not all that hard to do on a big block C body. You just need to drop down the center link for room to get the pan out. Jeff

I had to do that on a 1948 Packard that I did some restoration work on some years ago. New pumps were not available for that particular engine and the internals of the pump were in good shape. The spring had just lost some of it's tension over many decades. Jeff

It's worth a try. The listing for 1970 caps is all over the map, and I'm not sure which part numbers are actually correct. Jeff

I think the best bet would be to try the cap off of your '72. If it fits, you have the late style filler neck. Jeff

I don't think they used a vented cap in '71. '71 was the first year for vapor recovery, with the strange breather on the valve cover with the extra fittings on it, and the vapor separator back at the tank. I mentioned previously that they changed filler necks part way through the 1971 model...

The fuel filler is likely to be a bit higher on the '73 Dodge than on the '71 Plymouth. Appears to be confirmed by different part numbers. There was a mid year change on the '71 Plymouth: 3466856, 3583524 1973 Dodge: 3642089 Jeff

If the Imperial's existing system hasn't been ruined by the methanol in the fuel, I'd give it a shot to try to get it running. The FSM has some good diagnostics on checking over the system using a standard meter. A friend of mine bought a dead one years ago and was able to get it running again...

Don't go as tight as the manual says. It may pull the threads out of the aluminum. Jeff

@halifaxhops can help you out on that one. He usually has plenty of tach/dwell meters in stock. Jeff

Most likely, the pan needs a depression in the right spot to clear the idler arm on a hard right turn. Jeff

Here is the correct C body pan that was for sale on FCBO back in Oct. 2020. Maybe he still has it. You could send him a PM and ask. For Sale - 438 small block oil pan Jeff

Here's the other two non-truck 360 pans: 3751875 1974-1976 C body. pickup tube# 3698832 4006391 1974-1980 A/B/E/F bodies. pickup tube# 2468849 This pan may be stamped 392 Jeff

Looks like you are correct. That's bad news, because now there's only one choice. Part number 3418437. It came on 360 equipped C bodies from 1971 to 1973 only. What I found says it's stamped 438. I did a google search and Duck Duck Go search for that part number and came up with absolutely...

Disregard this post. It's wrong. :BangHead: According to info I found on FABO, it looks like you can use any of three pans: Part number 2806393, which is stamped 394 Part number 3418293, which is stamped 294 Part number 3614227, which is stamped 228 They all use the same pick up tube...

That would depend on the compression ratio. Usually bent valves are going to give you popping out of the intake or exhaust. Jeff

There should be three keyway slots on the crank sprocket. The instructions tell you to install the sprocket with the desired keyway on the key, then line up the corresponding tooth mark with the dot on the cam gear. It's fairly clear now that we are scrutinizing the instructions, but I can see...

Like this: Jeff

You're way off on that timing chain. It's surprising that it runs at all. Yellow circle is the correct mark. The keyway is around 1 o'clock at TDC. Jeff