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I've had it on for a year now and not a single problem . . . .

Can you remove and clean the rheostat with electronics cleaner?

1966 Newport with variable speed wipers: I know it's foolish to expect modern day performance from 57 year wiper technology, but is there something I can do to speed up my slow wipers? I'm thinking something along the lines of taking the linkages apart and lubing them, new bushings or...

Broken nylon clip?? Do you have a bore scope camera?

I’ve had good luck so far with my Mopar Performance “clone” kit made by Richard E., sold on eBay as the HiRev 7500 kit. One year so far and not a single problem. Hard to beat $200 out the door and everything included. Some people don’t like them though, so look at your choices and decide...

The video from Dead Dodge Garage is very helpful in understanding how the whole setup works, even if it is slightly different from the C body setup.

I pulled my sending unit and manually moved the arm around to see how it registers. Upon startup my fuel gauge briefly goes to the “true” level and then sinks to about half of that value. Every so often it doesn’t work at all. I think the gauges are just not real reliable.

You should be getting a 5v pulse every few seconds to your sending unit.

I went with a Standard "Blue Streak" coil for my "blue" electronic ignition box. Been working great!

Your welcome. It's pretty simple if you do it the way I did mine. About 7' of 10ga. wire running from the back of your alternator over to your starter relay, plus the fusible link. A couple of butt connectors and you're good to go. The headlight relay is also super easy if you buy the kit...

If you’ve not yet done the “ammeter bypass” upgrade and installed headlight relays on your car, I would make that the very first thing you do. Performing a quick forum search on either topic will net you lots of results on how to do the job, including my own build thread on my 66 Newport. '66...

Think I paid $35.

Mines made by “Standard”, not sure if it’s solid state or not, but it’s new and working perfectly.

My issue has been solved mostly. The float has been changed out and the gauge now works. It doesn't read accurately except when you first start the car. When you start it up, the gauge goes to the correct reading, and then slowly falls to about half of the correct value.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I’m gonna leave things as they are for now since the gauge reads accurately upon initial start up. I’ll drive for a couple of weeks and see how it reacts to the gas level getting lower and lower.

Yes!

Voltage limiter is a new unit made by “standard” products. Verified to work correctly with volt meter, pulsing ~5v about every 3 seconds.

So I just today got my fuel gauge working again in my '66 Newport by changing out the float. While things were apart, I took note of the fuel gauge with the float set to "full" and "empty," noting that the gauge read just over a quarter for "full," and just about an eighth for "half." I ran...

I see what you did there ….

Thread edited for clarity.