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An update for the benefit of future users searching for similar information: The new motor seems to draw the same current as the old one did, and with the same flow, as Ross suggested may happen. The new motor is a bit louder at the lowest speed - it could be the brushes breaking in or...

It's pretty hard to wire it wrong on this unit because the ground wire has an eyelet that bolts to the firewall, and the positive has a single prong female connector .. . thanks for the heads up though!

The only stamping the motor has is "Made in Canada". I agree, it looks like a factory unit. Perhaps it was a factory replacement from dealership 30 years ago? Who knows. The retaining ring has suspicious scratches and marks UNDER the rubber seal that lead me to believe this whole unit was...

I got the blower motor out. The culprit was a little bit of corrosion around retaining ring where it interfaces with the mounting ring. I used a 12” ratchet extension to go through the under dash vent up to the ferrule on the squirrel cage, and a hammer to apply some percussive persuasion. A...

Sounds like a good excuse to get out the borescope camera and take a look inside. Thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, it's AC. The FSM says to remove the screws and then "remove the blower motor unit" or something, so I've done what I need to do, it just doesn't want to come out. I need more leverage to pull I think, but there are hoses and stuff in the way for the heater core and air conditioning...

I’ve already taken those out and it still doesn’t come out. It just wiggles.

Yeah, that’s what the folks on FBBO said too. Very tight …

I read a similar thread over on FBBO and the answer was to remove the three screws. I put the three nuts back on so I could get some leverage and then tried to pull. The whole assembly wiggles a lot, but it will not come out. The exploded diagram from the parts manual doesn't help either, as...

I’ve got the three 7/16” nuts removed and the three 1/4” screws (indicated by the screw driver tip) removed that seem to be holding the retainer/plate to the housing, but the motor and wheel aren’t coming out. Can’t tell if I’ve missed something or it’s just stuck and I need to pull harder. Any...

Love to see a quick and dirty schematic of where that fan relay would go. Sounds like a great idea …

At that point, I’d rather just install a new motor!

Would "electronics cleaner" be a good fix if it's just corrosion in the motor itself?

I get "clunks" from the various blend doors as I change from defrost, to heat, to AC, and I can feel air going to the three different locations, just not as much as expected. I'll check out the ductwork and make sure there are no leaks at the joints.

1966 Chrysler Newport with factory AC. The output of my blower motor seems weak compared to modern vehicles. I assume that's to be expected, but even with my 3 speed fan on full blast and the setting on DEFROST, the output of air to the windshield is weaker than I expect. I thought about...

What was it?

The compressor on 66 and prior is canted much more towards the passenger side than 67 and later and plug on the p/s is nearly horizontal while the extra plug on the d/s is almost vertical. I might just add 7 oz and call it good.

That’s exactly what I will do. Thank you very much!

That was my intuition. I don’t know how long it’s been since it actually functioned. There’s been multiple owners of this vehicle in the last five years. I don’t know if I’m gonna keep this AC and get it working, or switch it out to a Sanden style, or just delete it all together and put in...

You can see the fill plug that I’m pointing to in the photo. I’m working on a 1966; perhaps the design was different in 73. My FSM didn’t show anything about how to make a dipstick. Thanks for the insights.