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I’ll have to show you guys with/without photos. The rims would have to be chromed…that obviously would be the only reason got leaving trim rings off. I was afraid this’d happen…LOL. They’d look so good/fresh Id hate to pound the trim rings on.

Has anyone ever figured out how to use them on the rally steel wheel WITHOUT having them dig in to/damage the freshly painted rim. In my case, I paid the extra to get them powder coated and now I hate to rubber hammer them on. LOL Other than cutting off all teeth on backside/using some sort of...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/260750640612?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7cDziYpFRLq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=jJvhE6rHTA2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Are these the correct lug nuts for 60’s mopars? I have all original wheel studs on my cars. Want to put 14” Rally wheels on my 68...

Pulled brake booster hose and plugged it. Yes, It idles better just as if my foot was not on brake pedal. When I sit with car idling in Drive/foot on pedal it idles the same as if idling in Park. So it does appear to be brake booster causing problem...or...there’s a plastic valve in brake...

I don’t hear a hiss...just feel the rough idle. Still need rebuilding?...or could it be something else.

I have a 68 Fury III with 383 2 barrel. When I step on the brake at idle, I feel a noticeable shake in motor. When I take foot off brake, idle smooths out. I’ve heard my brake booster needs rebuilding. Question number 1: Does this sound like an accurate diagnosis? Question number 2: Wondering...

Thank you for all the replies. I ordered 2 new Raybestos 3" wide drums on Wednesday and received them yesterday. Wound up being $70.00 each including tax. Not bad...I'll take them into the brake shop tomorrow and instead of asking him to reline the 2 3/4" shoes I brought in...I'll have him get...

I have a 68 Fury-383 2 door hardtop with a 2 barrel carb. I took the front drums and shoes into my trusted local brake shop to get them turned the other day. I've been having nothing but trouble with these brakes...pulling/squealing/heating up. The last thing left at this point is the front...

I don't have the old brake shoes from the rear or front...I bet I left them with the guy that I bought the new brake shoes from (as cores). Anyways I pulled all the wheels today and decided to have a look at everything. I've worked on the front taking apart cleaning/making sure the shoe resting...

Some very good observations and I'll look into them. I believe I still have the old shoes...and I already looked on e-bay. Looks like there's a glut of boosters there. Good or bad place to look?...or should I just try to find someone to check/rebuild this booster? I believe I read somewhere here...

I've bled the Master Cylinder so many times it can't be old fluid. It is an original Power Brake Car. I didn't mix up the self adjusters but I can check them. The only thing I haven't done anything with is the Power Booster. Can I just unplug the vacuum line to it/plug it and run with manual...

I've replaced everything in all 4 drum brakes. Shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders...All 3 rubber brake hoses, (2 in front , 1 in rear) master cylinder, rear e-brake cables, have had all four brakes adjusted from too loose to snug (the way they're supposed to be)...multiple times. The farther I...

1968 Fury III 383 w/ 4 drums. I've about had it with the brakes on this car. Ever since I got it earlier this year, I've had problems with one or more of the brakes dragging (drums get too hot to touch and sometimes I can smell them as well). I've replaced both front rubber hoses, rear rubber...

John...My equalizer had one small hole and one large hole. Had to enlarge the smaller one to fit one of the new cables because both new cables had the same size ball on the equalizer end. Bummer huh? That should have been my first clue to NOT install them on my car. I could take the equalizer...

I've come to the conclusion that the original passenger brake cable (spring) is old/worn out...and the aftermarket passenger cable (spring) I bought is weak, right out of the package. Not sure what I'm going to do...for now I guess I'll run with the added springs...unless someone here has a...

Thanks for the e-brake cable diagram HWYCRZR. I look to have all the factory parts there then. decided to run a test today. I found a couple of springs in my junk drawers....hooked them up from equalizer to e-brake cable bracket. It's enough the retract the passenger side e-brake. Here's a...

I'll try to get a few photos today... On another note...a friend of mine mentioned to me that he thinks a spring belongs on the bracket underneath the car between the mount bracket for the 2 rear e-brake cables and the adjustment bracket (that swivels) that comes from up front. I know that...

Thank you for verifying this! I must add...You know what bothers me...the hydraulic brakes on the passenger rear (as well as the other 3) seems to work very well. I've had my wife sit in the car and hit the brake pedal while I hand spin the right rear...brakes well/releases well every time...

Thanks guys...Chilton's had a diagram for rear brakes that matched my brakes and was labeled Ford Motor Co. The diagram Big John posted from the 69 Manual matched the photo in my Chiltons for Chrysler Corp. but not my car, so I jumped to conclusions as to having Ford parts in my brakes. What I...