I've replaced everything in all 4 drum brakes. Shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders...All 3 rubber brake hoses, (2 in front , 1 in rear) master cylinder, rear e-brake cables, have had all four brakes adjusted from too loose to snug (the way they're supposed to be)...multiple times. The farther I drive the car, the hotter all four drums get. When adjusted snug, the car will eventually start to shudder at high speeds and stop rolling (on slight grades in neutral) and the drum I have the most snug will lock up. When allowed to cool off I can drive the car again until the process is repeated. When brakes are adjusted "loose" this process will just take longer but all four drums eventually get blazing hot...too hot to touch for more than a millisecond. One "expert" recently told me to change the proportioning valve right below the M/C and I said to him that's just a distribution block. He said no...change it. I've since read and confirmed what I thought. On a 4 drum braking system there's no proportioning valve. So just to sum this all up. Everything in the braking system has been replaced except for the steel brake lines, the power booster and the distribution block below the M/C. Also, I've shortened the push rod between the brake pedal and the M/C about an 1/8 inch. No Change. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
68 Fury Power Brakes Heating Up
- Thread starter furyfever
- Start date
Pretty car.
So I had a similar situation with a motorcycle a few years ago. As the front brake heated up it started clamping until it locked up, then it would loosen as it cooled. The problem wound up being contaminated brake fluid, which would expand with temperature. I'm not saying that is your problem for sure, but it sounds very similar to me. You might try flushing your system with fresh fluid. Are you running DOT 3 or 4, or have you switched to DOT 5?
So I had a similar situation with a motorcycle a few years ago. As the front brake heated up it started clamping until it locked up, then it would loosen as it cooled. The problem wound up being contaminated brake fluid, which would expand with temperature. I'm not saying that is your problem for sure, but it sounds very similar to me. You might try flushing your system with fresh fluid. Are you running DOT 3 or 4, or have you switched to DOT 5?
mrfury68
Senior Member
Beautiful formal roof Fury III. Was the car originally equipped with power brakes? Just wondering if it has the correct booster. The self adjusters are right & left side specific. If they are on the wrong side your brakes will be adjusting themselves up as you drive. Hope this info helps. It is all I can think of at this time. Keep us updated . Good luck .
70NEWYORKER
Well-Known Member
Compensating ports in master cylinder held closed due to mis-adjusted pushrod length????
If all 4 drums are overheating, you probably have an issue with your master cylinder not properly releasing. This can be caused by a travel rod that is set too long. You should have between three quarters and one inch free play on the pedal before the brakes start to engage. If you do not have that, the travel rod is still too long. You may have a mismatched master cylinder that does not release properly with the existing travel rod. A quick check for this would be to get the brakes to where they are starting to lock up and back off the bolts to the master cylinder, if the brakes then release, you know the travel rod is probably still too long.
There could also be a problem with the power brake booster not disengaging the power assist when the pedal is released. This usually means an internal problem with the booster and the unit will need to be rebuilt.
Dave
There could also be a problem with the power brake booster not disengaging the power assist when the pedal is released. This usually means an internal problem with the booster and the unit will need to be rebuilt.
Dave
I've bled the Master Cylinder so many times it can't be old fluid. It is an original Power Brake Car. I didn't mix up the self adjusters but I can check them. The only thing I haven't done anything with is the Power Booster. Can I just unplug the vacuum line to it/plug it and run with manual brakes for a while to see if the booster is the problem?
That would probably indicate if the booster is stuck in the applied powered assist mode, won't be much help if something inside is hung up.
Dave
Can you post a photo of the master cylinder and booster?
Booster is a single clamp type, that should be correct for the application. Master is an aftermarket unit, at least judging by the cap. No sure why one stud for the MC mount is "long". You have signs of leakage at the long stud, you booster may have ingested brake fluid from a previous bad master cylinder. That usually leads to failure of the booster unit if not now, later.
Dave
luigi164
Active Member
Maybe not THE solution for your brakeproblem but I think it's worth to look at: messure the width of the new shoes and compare them with the old ones. I've had a looong time to find out that thát was the problem with the overheating issue on the rear brakes. It's all in this thread:
Rear brake is driving me nuts...
Luigi
Rear brake is driving me nuts...
Luigi
Some very good observations and I'll look into them. I believe I still have the old shoes...and I already looked on e-bay. Looks like there's a glut of boosters there. Good or bad place to look?...or should I just try to find someone to check/rebuild this booster? I believe I read somewhere here that changing a booster is a PIA. Yes, no? Thanks guys...
Bob
Bob
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Well. . . You could do that, but the car won't stop. . . Even with two feet standing on the pedal with the veins in yer neck about to pop.
The bulk of the boosters for sale on E-Bay are remans by Cardone and they are junk. Have your old one rebuilt by a competent rebuilder.
Booster Dewey does a good job as do several others. Changing the booster is a PIA, it is held in place by 4 bolts up under the dash that are difficult to get at. I usually pull the front seat before starting that job.
Dave
I don't have the old brake shoes from the rear or front...I bet I left them with the guy that I bought the new brake shoes from (as cores). Anyways I pulled all the wheels today and decided to have a look at everything. I've worked on the front taking apart cleaning/making sure the shoe resting pads on the backing plates are ok...just basically looking at everything. I've also checked the adjusters. The front left is marked L and the front right is marked R so they're fine. But I did not like the front left shoe. It's wearing only on the outer lower area of the shoe. What could be causing this? This drum generally runs hotter than the front right.
Normally that will be a problem with how the shoe was seated on the backing plate, could also be caused by adjusters that are set much too loose so that the shoe cocks when the brake cylinder applies it. They can also wear abnormally if the mounting hardware is incorrect for the application.
Dave
Dave
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