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I have some 1/4 inch ones if needed.

Sounds like the drain tube is blocked or to small. and also the box might need to be resealsed. Yes it sucks.

If needed I have a 35 lb can of r-12 I would sell in PA Pick up only. Weighs 33lbs on the scale.

You definitely need to flush the old lines first. Will it work without doing it yes but not the best. Denatured alcohol then blows it out, assemble and vac it down to about 30 so any residual oil boils off. That checks for leaks plus also.

Was just going to post him I know Ritchie and Frank pretty well he will help you out. Tell him Halifax Hops sent you

theheaterboxguy.com Tell Ritchie Hoppy referred you.

The heater box guy will hook you up, he only does mopar.

I would replace all of the ones you can get to. If one is starting the others will follow if they are steel. Once out try to flush a the rust out of the bottom of the water passages, it is a mess to do better off outside. This tool is your best friend now. Not to expensive if you want to buy...

Seriously borrow a testing oil pressure gauge and see where it is at. I have had aftermarket oil pressure gauges way off also. And also faulty oil pressure sending switches that came on with 15lbs also. Also to help which light is actually the issue?

Should be a low oil pressure light (on under 5psi) I don't believe it has a hot light. put a test gauge on it and see where it is at idle. With the engine hot! The sender can be on its way out also and just coming on at a higher pressure. I would get a good known reading for piece of mind.