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Should be, I have a 64 NY and lots of the parts between a 64 880 and a 64 NY are interchangeable as I've come to find out

Here's a random one on eBay, but you can find them in other places without BRAKING (see what I did there?) the bank NOS Mopar 1964-66 B+C-Body Brake Light Switch | eBay

Ray @halifaxhops is a dizzy wizard, having purchased one from him for my 440/505. I do like Pertronix as well...simple, easy to hook up.

Pertronix, no points, easy install, no ecu box.

On mine yes, but I have a 440/505 with shorty manifolds, not the logs. Not sure what your setup is or if they make straight ceramic boots, but the socks work well too.

I've had luck with the socks, but the ceramic spark plug boots are really nice.

Ray @halifaxhops has sold me 2 distributors and I 100% stand by his work. He'll meet your specs, send you the build/test sheet, and they work exceptionally well. I had one built for my 440 and my 505 stroker.

Sounds obvious, but best to find out why they overheated before you go replacing them. Not sure which wires were fried, but bad voltage limiter? Bad relay? Wire gauge too thin? Bad voltage regulator?

I used those adapters on a mini starter and they work like a charm. Makes life much easier for accessing those starter wires.

That certainly could be, good point. Definitely an odd problem and like I said, Ive known other guys who ran their starters without them with no issues, but all I can speak to is my situation and what worked for me. I will say this, I ran a mini with AND without a starter dust cover on my 383...

That's not the dust cover I'm referring to. The one I'm talking about often gets referred to as a starter shim but it's not. See below:

Had the same issue and there are comments on this issue definitely on this site and some of the others, but you may have to Google. Long story short, I found that the dust cover that goes between the mini starter and the bell housing also acted as an alignment plate of sorts. I left it off the...

The other change I made was to buy a built-in resistance coil (Pertronix II). The TSP's I bought came with their own respective coils and I too bypassed the ballast resistor, obviously to no avail. If the first TSP you bought doesn't fire after doing what you said, it may have been fried. The...

For what it's worth and this is as recent as in the past few months, I had not 1, but 2(!) of those TSP ready-to-run dizzys crap out on me on my 440. I switched back to a stock dizzy courtesy of @halifaxhops and my no spark issue went away. Car runs great now. If everything else is checking out...

I believe you just run a wire from the NSS to the Starter Relay as shown in your photo. You have to be sure you have the 4 terminal starter relay and PLEASE don't confuse starter relay with starter solenoid. Two very different parts.

I meant more in terms of running everything through the ammeter with the improper gauge wire. That is what can get things HOT and nuke your gauges. Post a photo of your current voltage regulator, because there a few different models.

Couple of things come to mind. Is your dash equipped to handle the rise in amperage? I've seen/heard many a man's dashboard go up in flames because of too many amps running through the gauges. Might be obvious, but definitely go through your fuse block and be sure you have the correct size fuses...

Had a similar situation with my 64 NY and it sounds like the NSS as was stated by Dave. That's what my issue was. I noticed on occasion I would have to hold my push button Neutral down when turning the key. Once I changed my tranny filter, it allowed me to look into the tranny from underneath to...

Great points John, allow the fanning of the flames to continue on the stub vs sub frame debate, lol

Great advice per usual, no doubt. One slip early on but corrected himself referring to the starter relay as a starter solenoid and I can admit, when I was first understanding wiring diagrams and parts, I confused the two because people were using the terms interchangeably. For the possible...