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On your next task, best to refer to Big John's "Gas Guage Sender Flow Chart" thread, very helpful. It might be right under this thread in Similar Threads below.

I've already thanked Big John a gazillion times on this as it is instrumental in going through a proccess of elimination the right way. I hope everyone with a gas gauge issue uses this thread as their first approach to solving their problem. Thanks again Big John for your work and for sharing. PT

I hate gremlins, if all fails create your own circuit for the brake lights, 12v to one side of the brake light switch, the other side goes all the way to the trunk and parallel 2 aftermarket LED strip lights ( red lead ) on Amagon that you can stick on with the adhesive between the crack of...

What scenario will possibly happen if the fuel line is not grounded?

Does the fuel line itself need to be grounded properly?

All great advice, thanks guys!

I know it's the signal switch and flasher not working for the signals, I'm more concerned about the brake lights not functioning. As Big_John mentions, all my grounds need inspection also.

Thanks Big_John and 300Rag, I'm addressing you both on this one as I was going to ask Big_John the question of " Do the brake lights and turn signals not share the same ground?" The turn signals do work manually , I have to flick them by hand, need a new flasher and one cam is broken in the turn...

Hi all, My breake lights are still not working, hope someone can help. First i thought it was my brake light switch cousing the problem as the braket holding the switch was not adjusted properly. Fixed so that the plunger is fully pushed in to open the circuit, well that's not the problem...

Thanks Cbarge, timely post as I am just getting to that point in my restoration, I thought that replacing reg bulbs to comperable LED lights in the tail would be a strait swap, is it different in the tail lights? Former owner used relays at the front to get the low beams lights to mimic signal...

wires have to be stereo related then, not sure where though. All the best with your builds. PT

Every time I go back and look at the pictures and read the comments the mad hatters left it makes me laugh also. Unbeknownst to them he kept the hood down, too embarrassed to show off the 2 40oz bottles of Jack Daniels being used as the rad overflow and the windshield washer reservoir

Sorry about all that snow you guys got out there, watch the rivers next! Not fun I'm sure.

Nice work on the engine paint job, was your car originally red...still red? As for the harness, almost looks like it belongs with the heater blower, correct me if I'm wrong, the harness consists of BLK, BRN, and DGN? I 'm not seeing any brown wire in any of the radio configurations/diagrams Hard...

NOT MINE - 1970 Dodge Polara Convertible - C$8,500 - Sudbury, Ontario, Canada I only paid 7 CDN for it, it's now in restoration mode, all the crap mentioned in the sale came off except for the hood for the time being, I did acquire another hood for $100 and another trunk lid both in amazing...

Sprice, send me a good couple of pictures of 29472360 with connector shots, color code, what car/ year, I only have the 70 Polara/Monaco service manual, so not sure if I can help.

I think your right on this one also, it's not a long harness what so ever, maybe 12" long , female BK spade tip at one end and the other grey is a split round male plug. Thanks

Thanks for the tips, I have no problem following the schematics using a ruler as the designations are at both ends are identified so it keeps me on track, I will revisit the radio, fader, cornering light sections in the book. In a former life I worked for Bell Canada so my old probe and tracer...

If Samplingman thinks 2947230 its for the front speaker, most cables/ harnesses are sequentially numbered or have the same prefix, so I will assume yours is for the radio/ 8 track/ fader... something radio related.