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Were these plug and play? Which bulbs did you get?

Before you start replacing bulbs, I'd replace the Voltage Regulator with a modern, solid state unit and see if that improves your dash light brightness. Mopar Voltage Regulator - Electronic Solid State with Correct Restoration Look | eBay

Check the fuse.

No worries, man. Not everyone has the Owner's Manual.

Owner's Manual

There's a clip that houses the flasher just under the dash by the ashtray at the lower lip. Do you have the Factory Service Manual? If not, you should pick one up. It's worth its weight in gold.

It could be the switch itself. If you have a tilt column, it is mounted roughly halfway down the column.

I have not bypassed the Ammeter. I'll check the connections at the bulk head and Ammeter. When I restored the car I used all new wire from the firewall forward and all other connections were cleaned and in good working order. I doubt that is my issue but I will check it nevertheless. Thanks...

Thanks guys. I've got a new Voltage Regulator on the way so I'll start with that. If that doesn't resolve the issue, I'll have the Alternator tested.

Thanks guys. I've been running a solid state unit for years. Maybe it's finally giving up. I'll swap it out and see if it helps. Thanks, again.

Thanks. The main one under the hood or the one on the cluster?

I've noticed my dash lights dim quite substantially while at idle then illuminate back to normal at cruise RPM's. Any idea what could be causing this?

Which Pertronix generation are you running? Are you running the Pertronix coil too?

Nor am I. The wife and I went to grab a cheeseburger and catch up with some friends we haven't seen in a while. I hadn't been to that cruise in years and didn't even know they gave out awards. Pics from this evening before we left:

Nope. Drove it to a local cruise tonight without issue; ran perfect. I doubt the coil is overheating as it was 165* with the infrared thermometer when we parked. It's possible it was just a fluke thing that happened. Who knows. Side note, first cruise I've been to in years and I won "Ruby's...

I just got off the line with Pertronix Tech Support and gave them the rundown on my setup and they confirmed I have the correct coil for my application; gutted Ballast and all.

Wouldn't the Ignitor Coil be high resistence?

Thanks, Dave. I thought about that but wouldn't it have sputtered and not flat out died if it was was fuel related? I've drained the bowls on the GTO's Tri Power before and the symptoms were much different. The increased throttle could have certainly been coincidental.

Thanks, guys!

'65 Chrysler 300 with 383, Petronix Ignitor I Module and Coil. Ballast Resistor is in place with the guts removed and a correct gauge wire soldered in place effectively bypassing the Ballast. Solid state Voltage Regulator. I was driving the other day, got on it a little and the car just died...