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I wouldn't worry about anything in the transmission, looks like it's been a while since it was serviced so maybe once it has a new filter and fluid run it for a year then change the fluid/filter again and you should be good! The 727 is a ridiculously strong transmission and will keep going when...

He has to modify the floor because with 3 on the tree it did not have to clear a floor shift mechanism, that is why 4spd cars, A,B,C,E-body have a hump on the floor. As for shifter I never said t modify a hurst mechanism or shifter...I said to utilize the top portion of the inland shifter to...

OK my thoughts and ideas on your car...I think since your car has been modified already the loss of the column shift really isn't that big of a deal, I do agree with keeping all the original 3 speed parts, column, transmission and any other parts that don't make it through the conversion...

I assume those are just casting flaws, or perhaps from corrosion? Those holes don't look like they are in any passages or areas that would have fluid pressure in them so I would be tempted to just JB Weld them up and put it back in service. I rebuilt my 727 in my 68 T/C wagon some years ago...

The Helical ones I've looked at and they seem super stout but for a casual street driven car I think they are a tad overkill. The Power-loc units are really nice units, I have one in my Dana 70 (original unit from 1993) rebuilt 10 years ago and I've put over 180K km's on it with a ton of heavy...

Your new 200 mile sending unit should be fine...just clean it really well and install in the new tank.

Well if your tank is really rusty inside then you might have issues with debris clogging up the pick-up, and if the sock is really dirty or torn than you could end up with rust and debris clogging up the fuel line. But as others have suggested you'll need to clean the carb at a minimum, and...

I like to have the clear one to see how much crud is being captured, they can get pretty dirty before they start to restrict any fuel flow. My 68 T/C wagon had a decent tank but it had been open to the elements for a number of years, I was capturing sand, debris and crud for a couple years...

With a dirty fuel tank like you seem to have I would recommend installing a simple clear fram G2 filter "before" your fuel pump, then the usual metal canister one after the fuel pump.

Best bang for the buck and fairly easy to do would be to swap in a set of 3.23 gears for the differential....great gear set that gives you good acceleration and good hwy speed cruising as well. I had 3.23's in my T/C wagon then thought the 2.76 would help with MPG and better hwy cruising...I...

The kick down rod from the transmission to the intake throttle bracket should be the same, 2bbl or 4bbl, but the intake throttle bracket and rods will be different between 2bbl and 4bbl. You might be able to bend, cut, weld and modify the throttle bracket to work, but the mounting point for the...

I'd start with looking for vacuum leaks...Check all hoses and make sure they are hooked up tight and if they all look good with no cracks or worn through holes on the backs of the lines then check for a loose carb or damaged carb gasket.

As DCMC mentioned head over to the Cummins truck forums and do some reading...I frequent these two sites.... 1st and 2nd Generation Ram - Years 1989-2002 - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Nice thing with the TQ is the multitude of fine tuning you can do the whole carb to get it dialed in on your motor, the Holley, eddies and others just don't have that kind of fine tuning available. And with the tiny primaries the TQ even on a big 440 can get great fuel economy...my worn out...

I had the same thing on my wagon and put a new filler neck seal on it...nope still leaking gas fumes, put a new gas cap on it...nope still leaking fumes. Then one day I installed the gas cap upside down by accident and guess what...no more fumes! Not sure why it seals one way and not the other...

Dexron/Mercon is what I use....cheap and easy to find.

Ive had no issues running Edlebrock carbs...usually just go for the 750 Vac sec units, if your motor and carb are tuned and set up right you won't be over fueling it.

I've switched between the 2.76 and 3.23 in my 68 T/C wagon in the past, I would drive hundreds of Hwy miles on vacation in the wagon and thought the 2.76 would net me better MPG and cruising...didn't find that at all. The 440 would bog down on the hills and you would have to drop into passing...

I'm not sure what carrier that is? When I looked at the pics I said to myself...What is up with all that extra ribbing and fanges! Sure doesn't have the standard look of a 741/742 case, and definitely not a 489 case. Best I can suggest is to get some solvent and couple good brushes, a bunch...

Ive been using the Marine Sta-Bal for 5-6 years now and it definetly does help with mitigate the negative effects of ethanol in the fuel. I have a lot of gas powered small engines, quads, snow mobiles, generator, chipper, mower etc etc....and I put the Sta-bal in all my fuel that is going in to...