So you are wanting part numbers so you can "build a kit"? A lot of your answers are in post #2, respectively. Those answers should send you into the online catalogs for Edelbrock, Air Flow Research, Trick Flow, and others with aftermarket aluminum heads so YOU know what is out there. Pistons? Keith Black/Silvolite for pistons and then to see ifd Mahle had any 383 piston/ring sets. Their narrow rings unlock power from friction decreases. As can the plateau honing techniques. The more power you build with better cyl head flow, the less you need bigger camshafts.
Thanks for the "power numbers". Which appear to indicate that many stock components can be used with good results.
As to bearings, many of the later police-spec engines used the old Tri-Metal bearings from Clevite, back then. Was the choice for "racing" engines, too. The one issue is their less capability of "embeddability" of the bearing material. What that means is that should microscopic "hard things" meet between the bearing and crankshaft, how capable they are of getting embedded into the bearing material (reducing crank scarring) can be important. "Harder" bearing material and less embeddability, more soft/OEM-grade can allow more embeddability and less crank wear. Should not be a real issue as "Grooved" can be more important, anyway.
The normal Chrysler part-grooved main bearing sets were normal. One half fully-grooved and the other half not grooved. Many went to a fully-grooved set for main bearings, but the normal sets worked well past 150K with decent maintenance. Discuss with uour machine shop operative.
Cylinder heads? As I mentioned, the more modern chambers have better combustion dynamics, BUT then the closed chamber heads have been found to have good port flow when the Mopar Perf Porting Templates are used. When done, all of the intake ports flow the same, no matter the casting. In the online catalogs, look for LESS than about 200cc volume so you don't lose port velocity at lower rpm levels. Many of the big-name aftermarket heads are oriented toward 7000rpm power rather than normal, street-driving rpm levels and port flows. Loss of port flow velocity at lower rpm levels can result in soggier throttle response (compared to stock), comparatively. One reason that truck engines always have smaller intake valves, to keep "torque response" high as horsepower numbres might be decreased in a race engine by such.
Camshafts? I have never been really impressed by the Edelbrock kits. In the 1980s or now. They DO offer a one-stopo shopping capability and give them a reason to show dyno curves for their system. Something to use for reference.
As for the noted power range, I still suspect the Chrysler 268/284 cam numbers can work well for you. Lunati used to have a "re-imagined factory cam line", with a good cam for B/RB engines. Modern tech lobes with good power. It was also sold as a Summit Racing cam under Summit packaging, but the same specs. Price was very good too! A few members in here posted that they had put them into their 1968 383 4bbls with good results. Seems like the best bang-for-tje-buck. Seems like they used to have asymmetrical lobes, too?
Back in the 1980s, I bought a NOS Chrysler 440 MHC block from Chryselr (on closeout). At that time, the Comp Cams 268HE cam was a great cam for most stock-related engines. One night, I assembled my magnetic base dial indicator, Mr. Gasket degree wheel for the crank (using the dial indicator to calibrate a timing marker). With a genuine Chrysler Direct Connection valve lifter, and a pushrod to check lobe lift and timing events with. What I discovered was that the much-advertised asymmetrical lobes of those Comp Cams HE-series cams kept the valves fully open for 10 degrees of crank rotation! I also checked the popular Chrysler 284/284, original Purple Shaft Street HEMI grind. It had more duration and such, but the valves were only fully open for ONE degree of crank rotation. I suspect the 268HE would have more area "under the curve", which could mean equal power with less "radicalness" at idle. Which could mean a better cam atro live with in daiiy-type use.
Asymmetrical lobes meant the valves opened quick, but were slow to close. When installed, most of these hydraulic cams sounded like solid lifter cams. Finally getting fully quiet by 10K miles or so.
One thing you did not mention was "timing chain set". Use ONLY a quality double-roller timing set. Whether Mopar Performance, Cloyes. I have one that has lasted close to 300K miles. Quality matters!
Foe good measure, talk to your machine shop operative about using a Chrysler windage tray, too.
In ADDITION to the Chrysler Factory Service Manual, you probably NEED to get a copy of the Mopar Peformance (or the older "big book" Direct Connection, 1000+ pages) Race Manual on B/RB engines. Several tips and tricks in there in how to build B/RB engines to particular power levels. Like larger-entry oil pump passages, strainers, and such. Gettoing the older versions, which covered EVERYTHING might be a better investment from used book vendors or an individual willing to sell theirs. I bought a new one each year to stay abreast of "new things", back then. Now, you only get more-specific-area books.
To me, the neat thing about those old Direct Connection books was that all of their information is FACTORY DERIVED from Chrysler testing and research. Not something that some car magazine did, which can also be good. Just remember the time in which those DC manuals sere printed and originated, as advancements in some areas have happened since they were done in the later 1970s to 1980s. Still, good information to build from.
Have FUN!
CBODY67
