1969-70 440 carburetor needed

[70Tom]

Delete

 

[Davea Lux]

Most of the 69 K-Code 440 engines (350hp) ran a 4160 Holley. That carb had a lot of issues with the secondaries failing to open up until the engine was over 3500RPMs. The secondary vacuum velocity port was poorly placed and did not supply enough vacuum to open the secondaries. This carb was also famous for boiling over in hot conditions and flooding the engine. In short it was a POS. You will be better served rebuilding your current Edelbrock. If you have an AVS-2 it is a far superior carb to the Holley.

Dave

 

[1966newport]

huh

 

[CBODY67]

4360? Not 4160? Lighter secondary spring would not have helped?

 

[Davea Lux]

4360? Not 4160? Lighter secondary spring would not have helped?

For 69 that should have read 4160, old fingers, fixed it. The lighter secondary springs would help some, the weakest of them would get the secondaries to open at about 3000RPMs, still too high. Never liked the 4160 even on a street engine. AVS always worked better and had few reliability issues.

Dave

 

[CBODY67]

I was remembering the 4360 as a 450cfm 4bbl QJet replacement. Totally different design.

I remember hearing so much about how the Chrysler-used OEM Holleys had issues with the seemingly poor metering plate/gasket materials. Especially from the dealership people who (locally, at least) replaced the Holleys with Carters and got their customers away from the annual carb rebuild the Holleys seemed to need.

Never did understand why the Chrysler Holleys had so many complaints when I never did hear the Chevy people make similar comments, even with the aftermarket Holleys they used. Obviously, they all used the same gaskets.

Obviously the more current Holley gaskets are much improved. I put a 4175 on my Camaro and didn't have any durability issues (other than the accel pump diaphram seeping from Ethanol'd fuel) for well past 200K miles of daily use. The newer metering plate gaskets have some coating on them that glues them to the main body!

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[C Sickness]

There was someone on here a while back that had a pile of carburetor cores for sale. Among those was a 4160, exactly the same as the one on my 1970 440.

 

[69 300 vert]

I remember hearing so much about how the Chrysler-used OEM Holleys had issues with the seemingly poor metering plate/gasket materials. Especially from the dealership people who (locally, at least) replaced the Holleys with Carters and got their customers away from the annual carb rebuild the Holleys seemed to need.
CBODY67

My cars original owner was a Chrysler master mechanic at R.O. Gould in Long Beach. He replaced the 4160 with a 1969 correct AVS 4640SA. I've got a lot of his old stuff, certifications, a few tools, some literature including an advertisement from Carter on the benefits of replacing your OEM Holley with a specific number AVS, I don't recall the number right now, seems like it started with a 6?

He also replaced the voltage regulator with one of those adjustable ones, other than that he kept it all stock.

 

[RDHOG]

I have a 1969 Chrysler 300 I just replaced the carb with a Holley 4160 I think the choke thermostat spring is either wrong or not working. Car stays on high idle to long and will not kick down without tapping the peddle even after driving a aways. Or is there a way to adjust it. Anyone know where to get the right spring the one I have now looks like this

 

[CBODY67]

Check the FSM for adjustment procedures and such. At 70 degrees F, ambient (everything, meaning engine too), the choke blade should just close by itself. Not a hard close, but a "give it a nudge, possibly" type of close, to me. Colder than 70, then the closing force will be stronger. When the engine starts, the choke pull-off diaphram (on the rh side of the carb, near where the choke attaches) will open the choke a specified amount so that the engine will run and not choke down. Is that diaphram on your carb hooked to a vac port and operational? In order to check the "choke pull-off" adjustment, you can manually compress the shaft going to the choke blade with the engine off. To check the diaphram, you with the shaft manually compressed, you can place a fingertip over the vac hose nipple on the choke pull-off unit to see if the diaphram stays compressed, if it does not hold, then a new one would be needed.

As the engine warms, the thermostat will ease its tension and let the choke blade open fully. As you might notice, the blade is not centered on the shaft, so that air flow through the carb will open it with higher rpms, if needed.

None of this really has any direct correlation to the engine coolant temp, although they are both related. KEY thing is that the heat crossover on the intake manifold is OPEN and working, which is where the choke thermostat gets its heat from.

www.mymopar.com for free download of the Chrysler factory service manual, if needed.

Hoping this might help explain what should be happening,
CBODY67

----- Edit, a few hours later -----
That thermostat looks more like a Carter 4bbl item than a Holley 4bbl item, or am I looking at it wrong? Picture of your Holley on the car with that thermostat and the prior carb?