It could be that the last set of shocks were installed they had a narrower bushing sleeve and when tightened it pulled the cross member together. From your photo it looks like quite a-bit of squeeze. what part number if that shock?
1969 Imperial progress thread
- Thread starter vdk2010
- Start date
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I have filed shocks before. Could be from years of tightening or paint buildup.
Either file the shocks or open it up, I used some all-thread on an idler yoke...
Alan
Either file the shocks or open it up, I used some all-thread on an idler yoke...
Alan
mine seem to have a little more clearance on my ‘68 Polara. Just installed this spring.
mopar preferred
Active Member
UGW
Member
For whatever it's worth, I had this same problem with the bushings on some Gabriel Classic shocks I installed on the front of my '63 last year. Both new shocks had the same width bushing, but it was maybe 1/16 too wide to fit. I trimmed mine down with a hand file until they matched the old shocks, and I haven't had any trouble since.
I attributed it to "universal fit" parts, and the fact that any factory producing shocks in 2025 is probably all metric tooling, so there are bound to be slight differences.
Thanks! I will try and put two washers in between the crossmember to spread it apart some more. Maybe that helps.
Meanwhile, I started working on the last major component that I had never touched before. It turned out to be one of the biggest messes on the car.
I have no clue what caused this jelly mess, but it's everywhere. I have to dismantle everything, right down to the smallest part, in order to clean it.
I have no clue what caused this jelly mess, but it's everywhere. I have to dismantle everything, right down to the smallest part, in order to clean it.
I found these large metal pieces inside the pump, but they are not missing from anywhere else.
This is very concerning because they must have to come from somewhere.
This is very concerning because they must have to come from somewhere.
mopar preferred
Active Member
Oh, my!
I'm not going back through this amazing thread, but did the car run and drive before disassembly?
If so, that shows how tough the Torqflite transmissions are even with the lack of maintenance.
I'm not going back through this amazing thread, but did the car run and drive before disassembly?
If so, that shows how tough the Torqflite transmissions are even with the lack of maintenance.
No, it wasn't running. The engine was stuck, so I never checked the transmission.
For some reason, I assumed it was in good condition. But, like every other part on this poor car, it was wasted... But will be nice again, just like all the other parts!
For some reason, I assumed it was in good condition. But, like every other part on this poor car, it was wasted... But will be nice again, just like all the other parts!
mopar preferred
Active Member
I hereby predict it will be the cleanest, most polished, most precisely assembled Torqflite there ever was!
I think they are the "ears" on the pump that are driven by the convertor. Probably broken off by a bad installation of the convertor. You know when they say to make sure the convertor is fully seated in the pump when assembling the convertor into the trans? That's what can happen if it isn't.
I could be wrong, but it's my guess without seeing the trans completely apart.
Those ears look oddly familiar! I'll check that out. I'm in the middle of cleaning up all the parts. Thanks, John!
The converter need to slip in twice to fully seat into the pump, right?
Yes, the convertor has to engage the splines, then it needs to line up with the pump correctly.
Once it's all the way engaged, I clamp a pair of vice grips to the bell housing so the convertor can't slide out of the pump while wrestling the trans into the car. That saves a lot of frustration.
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Well, you've done the same for every single other part on this fine automobile, why would this be any different?
That is really jammy looking. Could have been a former owner adding some "stop leak" additive?
Keep up the amazing work!
3175375
Old Man with a Hat
Yummy! Lots of people here have extensive knowledge about these transmissions.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
I found that a wrench works, I typically use the starter bolt but it was broken and stripped/jammed in.
Alan
There's a bunch of ways to do it. I use the vice grips on the lower part of the bellhousing when I first unbolt the convertor and before I unbolt the trans from the engine. It kind of goes in reverse (no transmission pun intended) when I bolt the trans in. I get the engine to trans bolted up, then pop the vice grips off and bolt up the convertor.
I've seen it done your way though and it works just fine. IIRC, someone was even marketing a small bracket type deal that bolts to the dust cover bolts. I was always going to build one back in my Tool & Diemaker days, but I never got around to it.
You were right; the two ears on my pump gear are gone...
Unfortunately, the whole pump is useless as the gear has somehow 'welded' itself to the housing. I tried everything to get it off, but it wouldn't budge.
So it looks like I need a new pump plus support.
I also found a bunch of other parts that need replacing, which is very unfortunate. :/
The front planet and ring gear have some bad pitting...
The large shaft bearing has become completely frozen due to rust.
The inner race of the sprag is badly pitted.
The only cheap part that needs replacing is the plug for one of the piston lever shafts.
It was completely stuck... It has a 1/4" square hole, so I broke off a 1/4" extension, a 1/4" to 1/2" adapter, and a makeshift tool made from a rod bolt before finally welding a nut to it...!
BUT. . .
It took three days in laquer thinner and brake clear fumes, but the rest of the parts cleaned up pretty nicely.
These parts will get zinc and/or nickel plated.
It took three days in laquer thinner and brake clear fumes, but the rest of the parts cleaned up pretty nicely.
These parts will get zinc and/or nickel plated.
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