1970 B5 Sport Fury GT...Critters folly....back to basics

[CanCritter]

welp here we are...end of fitment..phew

..think final sanding and touch up next..few parts on order for engine bay and m nth later am still waiting for key cylinder.for steering column so l can reinstall it and finish up dash
Also gona hide as much wireing as l can and will P robally relocate battery to trunk
Need to.find out what it's gona cost to powdercoat inner fenders..if to much will paint...
Sanding....it is what it is...hands on ..no power.tools..panel at a time

 

[thrashingcows]

For my .02 cents Canadian I will say paint the inner fenders, a good primer and then some farmer/tractor supply house black paint will stand up great. IMO powder coating just doesn't look the same to me and it scratches up just the same as paint and is a heck of a lot tougher to "touch up" then paint is.

 

[3C's & a D?]

welp here we are...end of fitment..phew
View attachment 338157 ..think final sanding and touch up next..few parts on order for engine bay and m nth later am still waiting for key cylinder.for steering column so l can reinstall it and finish up dash
Also gona hide as much wireing as l can and will P robally relocate battery to trunk
Need to.find out what it's gona cost to powdercoat inner fenders..if to much will paint...
Sanding....it is what it is...hands on ..no power.tools..panel at a time

Sanding works for relatively flat surfaces, those parts are about as round as they come. I like the thick "1850" furniture stripper. No dust, just a slimy mess.

 

[CanCritter]

welp

For my .02 cents Canadian I will say paint the inner fenders, a good primer and then some farmer/tractor supply house black paint will stand up great. IMO powder coating just doesn't look the same to me and it scratches up just the same as paint and is a heck of a lot tougher to "touch up" then paint is.

welp that's just what l did...reasoning..paints easyer to detail than powdercoat
Inners in
Distributor came...its in..needs wireing
Manifold bolts came today..on tomorrow's list
New female back up switch connector on order for new back up switch
Most of splash gaurds are in but are a few piece l have no clue on..Detroit Industries stuff...where do these pieces belong?

 

[CanCritter]

sorted
Large piece at top wraps under radiator and clips onto splash pan
2 large pieces go over the A arms / frt suspension
2 triangular shaped pieces with large round holes mount just behind the A arms in the wheel well
2 rectangular shaped pieces with large round holes mount in front of the A arms in the wheel well
2 pieces at the bottom of the picture mount to the frame rails just in frt of the A arms
Horseshoe shaped piece mounts to plate below drivers side frame rail to protect trans linkage splash

 

[CanCritter]

W elp fixed reverse switch with new switch and receptical....manifold bolts are in which brings me to passenger side exhaust manifold....
The cold air delay with spring to open and close it....mine was trashed..coil missing ect....
Popped it out easy enough and left bushings in there...now l need a informed opinion on wether the plug holes and throw it on or try and fix with replacement...
Personally think their a blockage but l don't know everything....thier basicly for cold starts right....thoughts ?

 

[saforwardlook]

The purpose of that exhaust manifold valve is to route hot exhaust gas under the carburetor area of the intake manifold to provide for better atomization of the fuel during warm up in order to improve combustion and, therefore, cold weather driveability. It does make a difference especially in cold weather.

You also don't want it stuck closed either since it would exascerbate hot weather driving since the fuel would be overheated in that scenario and you could run into vapor lock or excess fuel vapors on engine shutdown that flood the engine with fuel, thereby causing prolonged hot starts.

 

[65sporty]

Yes sir, they are there to promote a faster engine warm up.

 

[65sporty]

The purpose of that exhaust manifold valve is to route hot exhaust gas under the carburetor area of the intake manifold to provide for better atomization of the fuel during warm up in order to improve combustion and, therefore, cold weather driveability. It does make a difference especially in cold weather.

You also don't want it stuck closed either since it would exascerbate hot weather driving since the fuel would be overheated in that scenario and you could run into vapor lock or excess fuel vapors on engine shutdown that flood the engine with fuel, thereby causing prolonged hot starts.

I liked your explanation better

 

[LocuMob]

As explained above, they serve a purpose. I got a manifold that the flapper was already removed, so I just took a bolt that fit the hole, two washers and a nut (or two?) and bolted it up to prevent leaking. Works for me, and it's still tight on the manifold. I don't have a choke on that car, so I don't need it.

 

[CanCritter]

like the bolt idea Loco..will see what l have...was thinkin of just pluggin them up with WB as well..
Thanx for the schoolin fellas...seein as l dont need a getaway vehicle anymore cold starts l can deal with

 

[MarPar]

Did this to my GTXer, D. Works like a charm.

 

[CanCritter]

just did mine with WD...think it should heat...pic tomorrow

 

[Fury440]

Paul tapped mine and threaded in a bolt. He trimmed the bolt on the inside to be flush to avoid any flow problems.

 

[thrashingcows]

I have done as the others a suggested and just put a bolt in each side with some high temp RTV in the holes first and around the bolts before tightening them up. Using stover nuts is also a good idea since they are a mechanical lock nut and their locking ability will not be compromised by the heat.

 

[CanCritter]

Santa will never find me down here lol......
been wet sanding by hand last week to get ready for paint..just one door and drivers side panels to do..phew..took cpl days off and did other stuff on car to give poor ole shoulder a break
..manifolds finally on and torqued...will do it on engine stand next time....looks good...once l get car started and ensure all electrical operates as it should will finish up wireing and vacum hoses and hide everything...most everything seems to be goin on and off 2-3 times to ensure fitment ect is all as should be....drivers manifold on....off to deal with stud.....back on..bolt up then unbolt and remove manifold..argh...put gasket on bolt right up again.....

Merry Christmas all undt a Happy New Years

 

[65sporty]

Looking good

 

[CanCritter]

2 months waiting for a ignition tumbler that literally falls apart in my hands takein it outa the box...Merry Christmas...
Another two hours studying it to see how they worked & operated then working up a pliable fix...why me
Ignition tumbler housing was literally beat to ****..tumbler long gone along with a few pieces of the housing leavening me looking for a replacement...
Found one but price was silly so decided to fix and it turned out great
Waiting to grab a new ignition bulb in morning then will finally get a long standing concern outa my hair....

also decided lm gona fab up my own linkage...more silly prices out there..

 

[thrashingcows]

I'll warn you now the lower linkage can be a real bear to get the geometry of the rods correct and the location of the transmission gear selector to line up with the column or console indicator. Might see like the costs are silly until you sink countless hours of hair pulling and fabrication into trying to get it right.

Just my 2 cents you mileage may vary....

 

[Fury440]

I agree with Brian, the linkage is a ***** to get right. On my car I was missing the links from the transmision to the steering column so Paul "made do" with a jerry rig. It worked fine at first but as things settled in on the various rubber mounts the geometry changed enough that putting the shifter in Park didn't always lock the transmission. That's when the car car rolled backwards across the laneway and I got my first owie.

Pissed me off!!