1970 Fury Speedometer Disassemble

[1970FuryConv]

The gauge face/dial face for my Fury III convertible has white spots. The seller had the car outside for a year, so I guess it's water damage. I have a spare speedometer with a near flawless gauge face. I was hoping to switch the 2, but don't know anything about taking apart speedometers. Does anyone know if this can be done/how this is done? Is there a way to change the mileage on the spare speedometer assembly and would that be easier than switching the gauge face/dial face?

The 2 extensions from the top don't attach to anything. Looks like 2 plastic rivets on either side of odometer would need to be removed. Pulled gently on on the black circle of the speedo needle. Did not budge from its shaft. Might be able to access the odometer thru that clear plate on the bottom.

 

[polara71]

I've had several apart over the years, not sure I can explain it in print.
The " plastic rivets " you speak of can stay put.
The mileage digits can be pulled and corrected to the current mileage of the car if needed. Patience is needed because it is delicate.

It is rather simple

 

[MrMoparCHP]

It looks to me that next to the idiot light sockets are a pair of rectangular clips, pinch those together and the housing should split.


Alan

 

[1970FuryConv]

It looks to me that next to the idiot light sockets are a pair of rectangular clips, pinch those together and the housing should split.


Alan

Hi Alan, I was guessing that the 2 screws, top and bottom of speedo cable fitting, when removed would release the speedometer. Sounds like from 71 Polara that from there it's a matter of correcting the odometer and using the entire speedo as a replacement. The 2 black clips at the top of the dial face don't attach to anything. They're more like guides to match the 2 indents in the housing. Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean. There are always chances to learn. Ben

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Based on all speedometers (Mopar) that I have removed, the two screws next to the cable socket are all that holds it in.

With the speedometer out on one end of the odometer Assembly there is a C-clip, pop that, leave the other end in place, expand the digits one at a time as needed to reset to match or zero on new restorations as many do.

Those white clips probably just hold the white reflector housing to the frame.


Alan

 

[polara71]

First remove the two screws to remove the selector letters/ numbers from the bottom....
Then pry these four clips to pull the plastic off.

 

[polara71]

remove these two screws

 

[polara71]

take that clip off and your odometer numbers should be loose to come off as a spool. Watch how they come out and make adjustments as needed. The little spacers in between the numbers are important.
Take pictures before removal of everything if you're unsure. That little worm gear can roll out. Don't let it intimidate you, take your time, put the kids to bed and do this when you have patience. It is simple but can be frustrating

 

[1970FuryConv]

Thanks Polara 71
& thanks Alan, MrMoparCHP
Very helpful info
Great pics too. Mine looks same

 

[polara71]

let us know how you made out ...

 

[Fury440]

The front plastic lens is easily polished to remove all the scuffs and shallow scratches. My preferred procedure is to wash it with dish soap to remove all the soluble crap. Then I use wet'n dry sand paper, starting about 800 and moving up to 1200 or whatever the finest I have. Finally I make a water and rotten stone powder to make paste like thin toothpaste to remove all the sanding marks and bring up a perfectly smooth surface. Do all this by hand and do not use much pressure, the plastic is quite soft.

Rotten Stone is a must have item for all plastic lenses. If used with a power buffer, it will do a nice job on glass that was been very finely pitted. Does an amazing job polishing wood furniture that has been urethane, varnished or lacquered. When polishing furniture I make my paste with linseed oil rather than water.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Thanks Bill. Gary (Wollfen) suggested I clean the lens with rags and tooth paste, then car polish. I added Meguiar's Quick Detailer for a finishing touch. Came out beautifully. I'll keep your suggestions in mind. Great solution for pitted glass!

 

[1970FuryConv]

I know Alan says to expand the digits. Not sure how to expand and disengage each number spool from its spacer. Does the shaft with the off center circular end fitting release somehow so I can take the spool apart, reset the numbers on their spacers, and then put it back together with the spacers properly aligned?

 

[polara71]

Wow, its been years .I honestly dont recall.


I never went back to zero, I always went to the current mileage of the car it was going into.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Thanks anyway. I wanted to change the spool to 25951, but the gearing inside is preventing that if the prongs on the spacers are aligned. I think the easiest thing to do is swap in the spool from the convertible. I suppose I could bust up this spool trying to figure it out, but why bother? All I really want is a dial with no white water spots and a correct odometer spool. Ben

 

[polara71]

I'm gonna have to go home and take one apart

 

[commando1]

How do you change odometer reading? - Dodge Ram, Ramcharger, Cummins, Jeep, Durango, Power Wagon, Trailduster, all Mopar Truck & SUV Owners. Dodgeram

I just rotated mine by hand in my 86 to 0 miles due to a recent faulty 440 install.It can be done and is very VERY easy.Time consuming but easy.Shall I make this a how to?

?HAHAHA Step 1 Remove dash panel. Step 2 Remove screws holding instrumentcluster in.Step 3 remove cluster(ensure you remove speedo cable, 2 lights that pop right out and there should be 2 small plug harnesses on the back of your circuit board.Also make sure you dont break the small support arm hooked behind yourheater controls.)Step 4 Remove the clear plastic cover.It should be 8mm hexhead screws. Step 5 Remove black cover plate.Step 6 Remove 2 screws holding MPH gauge to body of cluster.Flip it over and as your looking at the back on the right side is a small clip holding the main shaft of your ODO numbers.removee this clip with a pick or small needle nose pliers***DO NOT BEND THIS CLIP*****now when you pull your ODO roll off there is going to be the number dials separated by small metal washers with a small gap in the top and bottom to hold them tight on a small rail in the gauge its self.Roll that bad boy back one dial at a time.It'll take a little practice to get its rotation figured out and dont force it.You have to hold those gaps in a line as well so go one at a time till desired number is reached on each one.replace with gaps aligned on the rail and replace back into the tiny hole like a toilet paper roll.Replace clip and bolt everythign back together.I'm telling you this of course for a vehicle being used strictly on private property not certified in anyway by and state or commonwealth.I in no way condone this action nor do I suggest you do it.This is of course my part of providing freedom of information,and so on and on and on.

 

[1970FuryConv]

LOL. Thanks Commando1. And appreciate the disclaimer. If any FBI, CIA, Secret Service, or other government agents are monitoring this site, be assured that no Federal or State law will be broken in that, whatever odometer roll I use will reflect the current odometer reading of 25,951. I have dash out of the car now for black paint and a different dash pad shell, so it may be a while before I get back to the odometer.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I'm Back
First a picture of the reason for the speedo change. The person I bought the car from left it outside for a year after getting divorced and losing his garage space. Car leaked badly in Connecticut rain. Carpet destroyed. Thankful he pulled out the body plugs in the floor pan. Water even leaked past the dash trim and wiped out the speedo gage face. First time I've ever seen rust on a speedo that was in an operating car.

After removing the odometer spool, I had trouble keeping the teeth on the washers aligned, so the the second set of teeth would line up on the small bar at the bottom of the odometer opening. I finally came up with this sophisticated tooling.

The teeth have to be exactly aligned, so that they end up engaged on the silver bar with the red plastic piece in the center. It took several tries to get the rear gear in the picture above properly aligned on the tan gear below.

But after a few choice words here and there, I finally came up with this.

Could be time for Absolute Vodka, ice, water, and lime.

 

[Big_John]

I have dash out of the car now for black paint

If this helps, I painted and lettered mine a couple years ago. Let me know if you can't see the pics and would like to.

Cleaning up my 300 Dash