1972 fury AC heater core, removable from engine bay?

FinFury

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Well the damn core started leaking last year just when I had new seats and floor mat installed. I bypassed the core for that summer but I feel that now the time has come to fix it.

I have the engine out so there is plenty of space in the engine bay. Can I remove the core through that black plastic box which is installed on the firewall? Previous owner has apparently already removed the bolts and nuts but it is still held firmly with the factory goop/sealant-whatever.
 
Well the damn core started leaking last year just when I had new seats and floor mat installed. I bypassed the core for that summer but I feel that now the time has come to fix it.

I have the engine out so there is plenty of space in the engine bay. Can I remove the core through that black plastic box which is installed on the firewall? Previous owner has apparently already removed the bolts and nuts but it is still held firmly with the factory goop/sealant-whatever.
The heater core assemb. comes out from under the dash. Not as bad as it sounds Disconnect the duct hoses and the lower heat distribution duct. Disconnect vac hoses at the main connector by the floor and vent actuator. Unplug the blower resistor and remove the rear support brace. You didn't specify if it has A/C. If it does discharge Freon and remove A/C hoses. Put rubber caps over heater core connections. Be sure all heater box nuts are removed. If you have a console remove it. Roll your carpet till it clears the dash assemb. Pull the heater assemb straight back, when the heater box studs clear rotate the assemb so the core faces the floor and wiggle and slide it out. While you have it out replace the foam as it will help w/ heater efficiency and overall function. Detroit Muscle Technologies sells the replacement foam as a kit. If you have any problems PM me.
 
And have fun!
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Thanks for the info and pics! Ok, so I am in for very miserable weekend :D

Yes it is factory AC car but the previous owner had removed the AC compressor as it had seized.

Hmm, what is behind that black box which is attached to the firewall in the engine bay?
 
Thanks for the info and pics! Ok, so I am in for very miserable weekend :D

Yes it is factory AC car but the previous owner had removed the AC compressor as it had seized.

Hmm, what is behind that black box which is attached to the firewall in the engine bay?
post a pic please
 
There is no need to remover the cover on the engine side, you will need to remove the nuts holding the cover to the inside unit. Just remove the seven nuts you can see, there are some screws under the fender that also hold the cover on but not needed to remove the inside unit.
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Be careful when you remove the A/C unit as the hose connections sometimes seize and you can damage the evaporator trying to get them loose. Some times a little heat will be necessary to get them loose. If the compressor has been off , odds are both the evaporator and condenser are full of degraded oil, not to mention metal chips from the burned out compressor. Be sure to have both of them cleaned before trying to reactivate the A/C.
Once you have the unit out, note the two small hose connections to the branch fitting for the heater core. Often the reason these cores leak is because the small hose section has failed. Given that it is a pain to pull the system apart, I would probably still change the core unless it appears to be in pristine condition, not worth the hassle to pull the thing back apart.

Dave
 
Thanks for the pics and explanations!

About the heater core, last year when I checked, I couldn't find replacements for -72 fury with factory AC. I will most likely have to use the old one and recore/fix it or does someone have a lead for new ones?
 
Obsolete air has the '72 Fury heater core for an A/C equipped car. It is $319

Once they have your money, they are in no hurry to get your parts to you. I waited over a month after paying the invoice and made several inquiries as to when the parts would ship and got no response. Finally got pissed off and had PayPal cancel the transaction, then they finally responded. Told them (Obsolete Air) to go pound sand.

Dave
 
In the photos above (with rodent droppings etc.) looks like the heater core is the old v-cell type.

Get it recored at a radiator shop with a modern tube and fin style core. Regardless of core style, solder gets brittle over time and degrades. Best thing you can do is just keep your coolant fresh and you could kick this job down the road a ways if a leak hasn't happened yet. Check for electrolysis in the coolant and flush if more than 0.3 volt.

As for the firewall side plastic housing, it looks like this is just a bolt on duct and doesn't house anything.

I have not had to mess with my heater unit yet, just a complete A/C rebuild on the engine compartment side.
 
Once they have your money, they are in no hurry to get your parts to you. I waited over a month after paying the invoice and made several inquiries as to when the parts would ship and got no response. Finally got pissed off and had PayPal cancel the transaction, then they finally responded. Told them (Obsolete Air) to go pound sand.

Dave
Well that's disappointing news. Bypassed my heater core last year (factory A/C) was hoping I found a source for the new one.
 
In the photos above (with rodent droppings etc.) looks like the heater core is the old v-cell type.

Get it recored at a radiator shop with a modern tube and fin style core. Regardless of core style, solder gets brittle over time and degrades. Best thing you can do is just keep your coolant fresh and you could kick this job down the road a ways if a leak hasn't happened yet. Check for electrolysis in the coolant and flush if more than 0.3 volt.

As for the firewall side plastic housing, it looks like this is just a bolt on duct and doesn't house anything.

I have not had to mess with my heater unit yet, just a complete A/C rebuild on the engine compartment side.

For my ‘65 Fury wagon (above photos) was begging for a new heater core so I went with Classic Auto Air.
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In the photos above (with rodent droppings etc.) looks like the heater core is the old v-cell type.

Get it recored at a radiator shop with a modern tube and fin style core. Regardless of core style, solder gets brittle over time and degrades. Best thing you can do is just keep your coolant fresh and you could kick this job down the road a ways if a leak hasn't happened yet. Check for electrolysis in the coolant and flush if more than 0.3 volt.

As for the firewall side plastic housing, it looks like this is just a bolt on duct and doesn't house anything.

I have not had to mess with my heater unit yet, just a complete A/C rebuild on the engine compartment side.

Call Bob at GlenRay.
Glen-ray Radiators - All New Licensed Mopar Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Radiators
 
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