1973 Dodge Monaco Coupe, 127242 miles

1970FuryConv

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Very nice, I'm glad you rescued that car, I was eyeballing that one as I live nearby.
I see the car was sold new at City Dodge, City Dodge had a high performance history.

I tried to move fast and get a hold on the car by offering to pay full price by cashier’s check. The executor held it until I could fly down there. I’m really excited that my strategy worked and I ended up with the car, although it’s been a lot more work than I expected from the advertisement in Facebook.

Cool to know about the High Performance history!
 

1970FuryConv

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An update,
the big problem was cold starts. After a rebuilt distributor, new coil, checking the wiring many times, replacing the ignition switch, I finally found out from FABO & Rick Ehrenberg that it had to be the computer. If anyone runs into this, it’s pretty strange. Cold engine: The car won’t start with the key in start position, but it might start as you drop the key from start to run with the engine cranking. Once the engine is hot, the car starts normally in the start position. The whole time it runs like a top. Turned out to be a bad start circuit in the 5 prong ECU. I replaced the ECU and ballast resistor and cured a problem I’ve been beating my head against for several months.

Purchased Rick Ehrenberg’s HIREV 7500 ECU and matching single ballast resistor, eBay. Got rid of 3 dual ballast resistors and the 5 prong ECU. I have now started the car on several days straight. It has started with key in start position, 1st turn of the key, every time! WOW!
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Silicone grease, 4 prongs used
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Reliability: Finally!!!
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Important: Weiand 8007 is great SB 360 spreadbore manifold, but has no coil mount
BR2.jpg
 

1970FuryConv

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Windshield wiper and Instrument Cluster Weirdness
As many of you know I had the dash completely apart, although still in the car. I connected everything per the factory wiring diagram. Except, I had to run all new wires for the windshield wiper system, because they had fried when the switch fried, probably from somebody turning on the windshield wipers with the windshield wiper blades frozen solid to the windshield.

Park in the middle of the windshield, generic toggle switch running thru fried wires to the unreliable wiper system
PXL_20210905_161518435.jpg

Switch ground plate, adjusted by PO.
PXL_20210905_211900107Bent HL, WWS, RW MTG-GND PLATE.jpg

The fix
Rebuilt switch. I found mine under the drivers seat. Jeff Woods rebuilt for $115. Don't care if I could have gotten it NOS cheaper. It's in the car. It's supposed to be fixed.
PXL_20210905_224940826 WWS.jpg

After several bend attempts
PXL_20210905_225318238 WWS plate reshaped.jpg

Ran 4 new wires from switch thru firewall grommet to the 2-speed wiper motor
Wiper system is reliable and parks
 

1970FuryConv

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NO INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS
Here’s what I didn’t know: a Dodge Monaco with Fender top turn signals has no turn signal lights in the dash. The light on the right is replaced by a low fuel warning light. The light on the left is replaced by a Doors warning light, that is designed to stay on for 20 seconds after you get in the car to warn you to lock the doors. Mind you it doesn’t say "lock doors." It just says Doors. I thought I had a problem with the door open system as a whole, but as you’ll find out I did not.

On putting the car back together I found one light was on. It turns out that even though you think this is a door open light, it is really a lock door warning that is on a 20 second time delay relay, which starts from the moment you enter the car and close the doors. My problem was that the time relay is shorted. The open door circuit is connected to battery power. I had to find and disconnect the time delay relay ground in order for that light to go off and stop slowly drawing down my battery.
The misleading warning: NOT DOORS OPEN
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Found this diagram
FSM 8-146 Door Lock Warning, my car.jpg

Time Delay Relay: aluminum cylinder. No light green wire. What tricked me was "To Time Delay Wiring Relay" (see above). Not a direct connection.
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I unplugged the relay's ground from a 4 prong flat yellow female connector.
Tape fixed the problem. Can't ground now.
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All lights off yesterday. No current draw at battery. Was able to leave my negative battery cable connected overnight!
SHOCKING
 

1970FuryConv

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In examining the Door Open/Shut Switches and Circuit:

Courtesy Lamps: things I hadn’t noticed. I did not realize that this car had foot well courtesy lamps that turn on when either door is open. The dome light doesn’t come on when the doors are open, another issue yet to be corrected. I was essentially pulling wires and checking the door ajar system, when I saw the courtesy lamps. One was missing a lightbulb and the other one had a blown lightbulb. I installed 2 old GE 90, GE 95 bulbs that I had as spares. The courtesy lamps come on beautifully when the doors are opened.
Right side: I always clean the cowl drain when in the area. Left side already done.
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Small bird's nest. Enough to fill a dust pan. Amazing: no rust.
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Drain cover and GE 90, GE 95 installed
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Wiring diagram
FSM 8-145 Courtesy lamps, door jamb switch, my car.jpg

Working courtesy lamps. I can actually see something if I open a door in the dark.
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1970FuryConv

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DOOR OPEN SWITCHES
Also I thought it was interesting that the drivers side door open switch has a 3 prong connector. The passenger-side has 2 spade connectors. The driver’s-side connector was completely isolated from the air and absolutely perfect when I pulled it apart. With exposure to the air, the passenger-side door open switch (door jamb switch) spade connectors got tarnished. I removed the switch and cleaned the terminals on my wire wheel. If you ever have to reinstall one of these, the plunger should extend 7/16 inch from the door frame of the body shell where the switch mounts.
Both switches have continuity when plunger extended, no continuity when depressed.
Left side
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Right side
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See results of connection in courtesy lamp post.
 

MonacoBlue

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Good reference info. Thanks for sharing your experience. I installed a vent on RH side in place of the blocking plate.
 

MonacoBlue

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The R Window switch on the dash is the same as in my Monaco wagon. What window does it actuate?

The small rear coupe window motors are actuated by the switches on the door.

Seems redundant…?
 

MonacoBlue

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Also, the two tone look on the seats - are you sure it wasn’t that way from the factory? Despite the vintage promo graphics presented.

The original seats in my Monaco had two tone vinyl. Side and “back of back” facings were white. Seating contact surfaces were ‘parchment’. Factory original.
 

marko

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The R Window switch on the dash is the same as in my Monaco wagon. What window does it actuate?

The small rear coupe window motors are actuated by the switches on the door.

Seems redundant…?

its for the rear window defogger ( blower)
 

1970FuryConv

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Also, the two tone look on the seats - are you sure it wasn’t that way from the factory? Despite the vintage promo graphics presented.

The original seats in my Monaco had two tone vinyl. Side and “back of back” facings were white. Seating contact surfaces were ‘parchment’. Factory original.
Hi MB,
From decoding the fender tag.
R4L3 Interior R-class, split back bench seat, parchment fabric.
I used one of Galen Govier's books.
Also the colors of the front and rear seats don't match. The dash pad is light tan. Door panels are parchment white. I think the seats don't match the interior.
I admit, I have not done enough research to see what it should look like.
Feel free to correct me.
Ben
 

marko

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R4L3 shows as vinyl, not fabric on Hamtramck site

funny how they would do parchment and white color choices when they look so similar......
heres the vinyl colors

1644545137284.png
 

saforwardlook

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73Coupe

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Late to the show.......very nice triple white Monaco!

If Boss Hogg was a C-Body guy, (besides having an Imperial 'vert) this would be his daily driver.....
 
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