383 4 carburetor

Slick Willy

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I have a 67 Plymouth Fury with the 383. I took off the 2 barrel and intake & carb. I converted it over to a 4 barrel carb. What linkage parts do I need to complete the conversion! I have included a picture of it with the 2 bbl and linkage. Any advice would be great. If anyone haves pictures of theirs to share would be awesome. This is my first convention on the car. Thanks for any help.

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It looks OK in general. Did I see the Edelbrock throttle linkage adapter on the lh side of the carburetor?

How many threads are engaged on the throttle rod and the slotted rod that screws onto it? It looks like not very many, which can result in a wobbly connection there. IF so, there is an Edelbrock extension piece that screws onto the solid metal rod and then the slotted rod screws onto that to extend the rod. I had to use one when I put a TQuad where the factory AFB was on my '67 Newport 383. It's in the Edelbrock catalog.

Is the transmission throttle rod adjusted (with the new carb) according to the factory service manual instructions?

Where is the mounting bracket for the throttle cable and pivot for the trans throttle rod linkage?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
What you see in the photo is what I have. Idid buy the adapter for the linkage. I be just order the extender rod. No it’s not adjusted it’s been taken apart and is just going together. Do you have any pictures of your setup?
 
It looks OK in general. Did I see the Edelbrock throttle linkage adapter on the lh side of the carburetor?

How many threads are engaged on the throttle rod and the slotted rod that screws onto it? It looks like not very many, which can result in a wobbly connection there. IF so, there is an Edelbrock extension piece that screws onto the solid metal rod and then the slotted rod screws onto that to extend the rod. ...It's in the Edelbrock catalog.

Is the transmission throttle rod adjusted (with the new carb) according to the factory service manual instructions?

Where is the mounting bracket for the throttle cable and pivot for the trans throttle rod linkage?

My experience with the Edelbrock kickdown linkage rod extension proved it unnecessary when used with a 2 barrel linkage rod on a stock Mopar 4 barrel intake. I actually have plenty thread in the slotted rod also, and use a fine threaded (3/8-24 I think) nut behind it to keep the adjustment I use tight. I recently put the engine and transmission through another reset on the kickdown linkage, starting with the slotted rod screwed on too far to yield any kickdown, then turning it forward until I got a good kickdown but still with decently modest up-shifting.

I suspect the extension piece is only necessary when using an Edelbrock intake, which sets the carburetor further forward on then engine. I also saw that the 4 barrel kickdown rod, which I acquired as an insurance policy, is shorter than the 2 barrel one, which might also make the extension a MUST.

All told, using the Inline Tube fuel line for a Carter AVS, and the stock Mopar stuff, I had a very modest expense on my conversion to the Edelbrock 1405.
 
I had the TQuad sitting on an Edelbrock Torker 383 intake. I'm not sure either the intake or TQuad are living up to their billing. The TQ was replaced with a 1970 or so Mopar OEM *used, bu tkitted" 4160. No significant change in performance or mpg.

Being my TQ was a Mopar-replacement 9801, it needed no adapter for the linkage to work like any other Chrysler linkage. Just had to run a wire for the elect choke.
 
My 2 to 4 bbl swap 20000 miles still going strong. First pic is with a Holley demon the Thermoquad knock off. Second is the current setup with Thermoquad. I can't believe I have put so many miles on the old wagon.
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My 2 to 4 bbl swap 20000 miles still going strong. First pic is with a Holley demon the Thermoquad knock off. Second is the current setup with Thermoquad. I can't believe I have put so many miles on the old wagon.

Oh it's EASY to put the miles on these old C bodies! I've put 18k on Gertrude since getting her 4 yrs ago, and she's running better than ever with that 1965-66 383 from Mathilda. The old fellow who rebuilt that engine shortly before his passing did a very decent job for a low-budge, DIY @ home job. LOTS of red RTV sealing his old work, indicating that indeed he did that about 20 or so yrs before we bought it in 2016, as his son said. The pity was that he ran out either of $ or health after doing the cylinder block, and bolted the old stuff on top of his short block job, then got sick, and died with the body of the car partly disassembled in his garage when his son got it.

So, I've had to do what I could to the top side of that motor, and now it runs well indeed! I want to build at least 2 more, as replacements....
 
I found this online. So does this replace the kick down linkage? I’m confused on this. But I have never replace one before. Anyone have experience with these?

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I found this online. So does this replace the kick down linkage? I’m confused on this. But I have never replace one before. Anyone have experience with these?

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Why should it replace "hard linkage"? Might be inexpensive, but how good is the lube in that cable housing? Might be inexpensive AT THIS TIME, but what about in a few yars down the road? Still has to be adjusted, too!

Might be fine for a street rod, but I would not use that on my cars.

FWIW,
CBODY67
 
I found this online. So does this replace the kick down linkage? I’m confused on this. But I have never replace one before. Anyone have experience with these?

SAVE YOUR $! That one looked cheap. Good ones aren't, BUT YOU DON'T NEED ONE!!! The bellcrank with rods is the best thing you can get. Stick with it.
 
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