413 Engine, Pro's & Con's

LocuMob

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I'm looking for a running 440 to set up my Dart, and my girlfriend posts a wanted ad on Facebook. Get a couple people telling me about a 440 in an RV. That's good but one guy has a rebuilt 63 413 out of a New Yorker he wants to get rid of. Block and heads pressure checked and magnafluxed, crank magnafluxed, bored .030 over, crank and mains ground .010, new valves (forgot to ask what heads), forged pistons, a bigger cam, more lope to it, Edelbrock Victor intake and Edelbrock 750 cfm carb. New water and fuel pump, timing chain, electronic ignition, new starter and Mopar Performance valve covers. Comes with a rebuild 727 of later year with a Look shifter.

Any reason not to get it? It's not what I wanted to spend, but it's fresh and only a little over what I budgeted for. It would be a good engine for setting up the car, and for fun while building a fire breathing monster. Let me know either way.

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Guy built it himself, don't know his story, could be a Master Tech, don't know. The engine was only started for a few minutes then shut off, used break in additive, that was 2 years ago.
 
I'm looking for a running 440 to set up my Dart, and my girlfriend posts a wanted ad on Facebook. Get a couple people telling me about a 440 in an RV. That's good but one guy has a rebuilt 63 413 out of a New Yorker he wants to get rid of. Block and heads pressure checked and magnafluxed, crank magnafluxed, bored .030 over, crank and mains ground .010, new valves (forgot to ask what heads), forged pistons, a bigger cam, more lope to it, Edelbrock Victor intake and Edelbrock 750 cfm carb. New water and fuel pump, timing chain, electronic ignition, new starter and Mopar Performance valve covers. Comes with a rebuild 727 of later year with a Look shifter.

Any reason not to get it? It's not what I wanted to spend, but it's fresh and only a little over what I budgeted for. It would be a good engine for setting up the car, and for fun while building a fire breathing monster. Let me know either way.

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The devil is always in the details. Are there receipts for all the work that was done? I am generally suspicious of any engine that was run a short while after an expensive rebuild and then pulled out. I might have only run a thousand miles but only a quarter of a mile at a time! I do not know what the asking price is, but if it is more that about $750 run, don't walk away.

The 413 is a good reliable engine that will give years of service, but there is too much you do not know about this one.

Dave
 
Probably too risky as you don't know its condition.

Better to do up an engine yourself then you can be assured all is well as you've seen every component.

All the best whatever you choose to do.
The condition is new, started then shut off. 2 years stored looking for a running engine, something to set the car up and get the suspension dialed in, while building a nice higher HP engine.

I will build my own, I would just prefer to do it while toying with the car on road.

Thanks, way overdue for the Dart.
 
The devil is always in the details. Are there receipts for all the work that was done? I am generally suspicious of any engine that was run a short while after an expensive rebuild and then pulled out. I might have only run a thousand miles but only a quarter of a mile at a time! I do not know what the asking price is, but if it is more that about $750 run, don't walk away.

Dave
Around here the sellers are giving complete cores for that money.

One guy with an RV said $1000 and I can drive it home, but then I have an engine I have to extract, then get rid of the RV.

I do have several blocks I could build, just wasn't planning on doing it yet.
 
Around here the sellers are giving complete cores for that money.

One guy with an RV said $1000 and I can drive it home, but then I have an engine I have to extract, then get rid of the RV.

I do have several blocks I could build, just wasn't planning on doing it yet.


Would suggest a 440 HP engine with a steel crank, you will have a lot more to work with. Most of the RV engines are low performance truck engines with cast cranks.

Dave
 
Would suggest a 440 HP engine with a steel crank, you will have a lot more to work with. Most of the RV engines are low performance truck engines with cast cranks.

Dave
Yeah, I've had fun with a couple RV engines already. You can still make them move, and cheaply too. I'll take one again.

If I build anything, it will be a stroker, the crank and will be steel.
 
Looks like the early heads, I don't see bolts in the front of the valve covers. Seems unusual that the small valve heads would have been used with all of the other goodies. I'm always suspect when something is for sale immediately after a rebuild.
 
You asked a question soliciting advice..
You got several replies..
You also seem to have made up your mind to get this..
Seems like you are looking for reassurance more than advice...
 
The condition is new, started then shut off. 2 years stored looking for a running engine, something to set the car up and get the suspension dialed in, while building a nice higher HP engine.

I will build my own, I would just prefer to do it while toying with the car on road.

Thanks, way overdue for the Dart.

Another option would be to find granny's old chrysler 64-70 with a running engine. Already has better heads and crank than the truck engine and can probably be bought for about the same money. Who cares if it is a beater 4dr if the engine still runs and the tranny still shifts.

Dave
 
Looks like the early heads, I don't see bolts in the front of the valve covers. Seems unusual that the small valve heads would have been used with all of the other goodies. I'm always suspect when something is for sale immediately after a rebuild.

Also an early engine ; you can read AAQA in front of the engine ( nice for max wedge ).
 
Where are you located? I've got several running 440's in motorhomes with forged cranks. I've got a 413 in a motorhome too. Located in So Cal.
 
Also an early engine ; you can read AAQA in front of the engine ( nice for max wedge ).

This is a 63 413 engine. AAQA followed by 2LR was used for the max wedge. Also used on a lot of truck engines. The key would be to pull the heads and check for the relief cuts on the block to accomodate the max wedge valves. Casting number for the max wedge was 2406730.

Dave
 
Looks like the early heads, I don't see bolts in the front of the valve covers. Seems unusual that the small valve heads would have been used with all of the other goodies. I'm always suspect when something is for sale immediately after a rebuild.
The 516 heads, correct? Engine was built a while ago, started 2 years ago.

You asked a question soliciting advice..
You got several replies..
You also seem to have made up your mind to get this..
Seems like you are looking for reassurance more than advice...
I was thinking I was giving the vibe I will be buying the 413, but I haven't committed to anything yet. I'm not that crazy to drop an engine in tomorrow, my plans to get an engine in the car this year went to Hell months ago, and I'm fine if I don't get an engine til the snow flies or later.
Also an early engine ; you can read AAQA in front of the engine ( nice for max wedge ).

This is a 63 413 engine. AAQA followed by 2LR was used for the max wedge. Also used on a lot of truck engines. The key would be to pull the heads and check for the relief cuts on the block to accomodate the max wedge valves. Casting number for the max wedge was 2406730.

Dave
So if I was able to pull the heads and it has relief cuts, it would be a good base for a Max Wedge build? I was planning on one of those in the future.

I don't care if the block came from a truck, it can be from anything. I get a 69 HP block is great but I can build an engine from any block and get the level of power I want, and let the numbers guys go crazy over the HP stampings. I thought there might be 1 person not afraid to use a rebuild from someone else, but I guess you can't trust anyone with an engine these days. Sucks, most everything I have I got used and relied on the sellers word. The other rebuild I had in my Polara, it died a crappy death, lasted me 3 years before it took a ****. I'll see if the seller will let me tear into it a little. The other option is the RV engines, and those are just about the same price, so that's not much different.
 
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