440 in a Slant 6 engine compartment 65 Fury

FFGREG

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Anyone do this swap? Question is, what is needed to mount the 440 in an engine bay that had a slant six in it?
 
In addition to a larger radiator, big block transmission, shortened driveshaft, new exhaust, you might need to swap the K Member as well as get big block mounts.

Personally, if I were at a show, I'd rather see that leaning tower of power in your Fury, and not another... yawn... transplanted 440.
 
The OTHER things you need to be concerned with are the braking system and torsion bar issues relating to the lighter engine vs what came standard with the B/RB motors. As the brakes which came on lighter cars did not have the size and robustness of what came with the B/RB cars, unless it is a genuine police package car (defined in the VIN model letters).

Related areas INCLUDE the stoutness of the transmission, driveshaft, and rear axle ring gear diameter.

When CHRYSLER built a car, they up-sized the brakes, rear axle, and suspension to match the power and hauling capabilities of the car with more power under the hood. GM did not do things nearly to that degree, by observation.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
In addition to a larger radiator, big block transmission, shortened driveshaft, new exhaust, you might need to swap the K Member as well as get big block mounts.

Personally, if I were at a show, I'd rather see that leaning tower of power in your Fury, and not another... yawn... transplanted 440.
EXTRA points if some of the old HyperPak parts were on the /6. Like the 4bbl intake with a 450cfm carb on it. Related exhaust manifold, etc. Or even a later Feather Duster 2bbl intake with a Holley 2bbl EFI system on it. Letting the EFI system also control the spark advance functions. Unfortunately, 440s, overly wide rear tires, and lowered front ends have been done SO MANY times many have tired of seeing such.

For the ultimate, put a ZF 8-speed behind it with the 4.8 low gear for powerful launches. Better find a good 8 3/4 rear axle to do that, though. Adding some old "Traction Master" type traction bars would be NEAT and functional rear end additioin, too!

Doing "something different" is always better than doing what everybody ELSE has already done so many times over.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67
 
I believe the spots that the motor mounts bolt onto are different on a /6 stubframe...normally you would bolt on an entire front stubframe from a V8 car, preferrably a big block one that had the larger torsion and sway bars anyway...at least, that's the "no welding or fabrication" approach...think a 65 318 poly stub had an oddball motor mount but 66-68 big or small block stub will work...radiator support for a 26 in radiator, and big block transmission/bellhousing has different bolt pattern than /6 or small block
 
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In addition to a larger radiator, big block transmission, shortened driveshaft, new exhaust, you might need to swap the K Member as well as get big block mounts.

Personally, if I were at a show, I'd rather see that leaning tower of power in your Fury, and not another... yawn... transplanted 440.
'65 Fury C-body cars did not have K-members. They have front subframes. If you can find a donor C-body car that had a big block, you can use the motor mounts on the existing frame, but it will have to be a '65 because a '66 has a different style of mounts and won't interchange. Any '65 C-body would include Chrysler Newport, New Yorker, 300, Dodge Polara, 880, Monaco, or Fury's but not Imperials.
 
why are you telling him he needs a 65 stub? he's not trying to install a 65 engine
 
why are you telling him he needs a 65 stub? he's not trying to install a 65 engine
From my own experience from back in the day, the '65 mounts are different from a '66, because the '65 big blocks bolt to the front and side of the block, where the '66s were side mounted on the side ears of the block. To my recollection there are differences like the '65 had cable shifters, column or console, but the '66 had linkage either way. Why get into a project if there are likely differences? I had a '65 Sport Fury and had 440 that I wanted to transplant into it but the mount needed a bolt hole on the front of the block that my '69 440 did not have, plus only a cable transmission convinced me to move it on. And the '65s can't use a stall speed converter.
 
Serious question, there's all sorts of aftermarket adaptors to put big blocks in slant cars for B bodies and A bodies. Since the block castings are the same, could those adaptor plates be used on a c-body? It's a much larger engine bay so there'll be more tolerance to position it.

Most likely answer is you'll probably have to cut and weld, which is pretty forgiving on motor mounts. A slant C-body is pretty interesting though, I didn't even know they made those. I saw a slant '66 Polara for sale here but I figured it was a swap and not factory.
 
You should talk to the folks at Imperial Services or 440 Source before you dive in. They may have the solution for the driver side motor mount issue. It is as much the mounting surface on the block as it is the mount.
Mark
 
From my own experience from back in the day, the '65 mounts are different from a '66, because the '65 big blocks bolt to the front and side of the block, where the '66s were side mounted on the side ears of the block. To my recollection there are differences like the '65 had cable shifters, column or console, but the '66 had linkage either way. Why get into a project if there are likely differences? I had a '65 Sport Fury and had 440 that I wanted to transplant into it but the mount needed a bolt hole on the front of the block that my '69 440 did not have, plus only a cable transmission convinced me to move it on. And the '65s can't use a stall speed converter.
that was my point...65's kinda an oddball and you'd be better off with the later stub so your choice of available 440's wouldn't be limited...
 
I built a '74 Plymouth Scamp back in the '80s and used aluminium elephant ears mounted behind the water pump like some super stockers did. I installed a 440 4 speed with Hooker fender well headers in place of the slant 6 and A/T. I even kept the A/C and added disc brakes from a later Duster and 11" rear sta. when. brakes. Biggest issue was it became a cop magnet.
 
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