'66 Imperial Hub Bearing Seals - Help

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My son and I have been tag teaming on his '66 Imperial. He recently installed new front hub bearings and seals. He has been traveling for work and I am finishing up brake adjustments. I noticed that the hubs were very tight when rotating and assumed the bearings were tightened too much. Up on further inspection I suspect the rear seals are not installed deep enough. My son cant remember how far in the old seals were in and just installed them flush with the back of the hub. The FSM doesnt specify a depth.
Hopefully someone can provide some insights. Thanks!
 
Inner seals should not have that much drag, I suspect.

Have you verified the part number used fits that Imperial application, rather than a '66 New Yorker (for example) application?

Just curious,
CBODY67
 
Part # is correct. The seal can be installed flush with rear surface of the hub or can be recessed up to about 3/8 inch, which would almost contact the inner wheel bearing.
 
When I looked for the part in www.rockauto.com, in the Timken listing, it indicated the Imperial part goes back to 1956 and also was used in 1956 DeSotos and some 1971 Dodge van and pickup truck applications. Perhaps the earlier factory service manuals might provide the guidance you are seeking? www.jholst.net for the Chrysler Letter Cars from 1955?

Perhaps the Online Imperial Club has some documents or guidance in this area?

Take care,
CBODY67
 
Wow, I really appreciate your suggestion. I like new sources and ways to back track to find solutions!
Thanks!
 
Could you use some Pics of the Front hubs with the seals installed ?
 
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Traveling right now. Give me a couple of days and I post some photos.
 
OK, here are photos of the hub with the rear seal installed to a depth of approximately 1/8 below flush with the face. Seals are Timken 6960's. I have about 9/32 before the seal contacts the bearing.

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Trying to decide if I should push seal in further? Bearings are new Timken's front and rear.
My primary issue is I don't feel like the hub spins as freely as I would expect, or have experienced in the past. Maybe this is due to the new bearings with "0" time. I did lube the seal surface but wiped dry for photos.
 
I have searched 6 or 7 FSM's from various years and have not found any mention of installed depth for rear seals. Normally I would have noted the positioning before disassembly but as I mentioned this is a team project and I did not remove the original seals and there is no memory of exactly how deep the originals were installed.
 
I have searched 6 or 7 FSM's from various years and have not found any mention of installed depth for rear seals. Normally I would have noted the positioning before disassembly but as I mentioned this is a team project and I did not remove the original seals and there is no memory of exactly how deep the originals were installed.
The OTHER situation is that I suspect that FEW if any mechanics/people have measured the interaction of the seal with adjacent items. The old seals popped out, the new seals tapped back in, just flush with the back of the hub (which was observed to be how the OEM items/old seals were installed).

As great as the factory service literature might be, they are NOT engineering manuals, which would instruct how to do common service procedures. Which might explain some of the "gaps" in what is in them that we might want to see. Perhaps a MOTOR Manual from the 1950-1960s might have some "common maintenance procedures" that are detailed in a section of it?

For the past 50+ years I've seen service station mechanics (who did these things for a living) install front wheel bearing grease seals, they all destroyed the old seals getting them out, then put the new seals in by gently tapping them back into place, flush with the rear hub surface. Whether it was at a dealership, a private shop, or in their driveway. Then with the wheel bearings being greased, the hub was installed and the adjusting nut tightened to specs.

Not sure what "standard" you are using to determine if the wheels turn "free enough", but if you were dealing with some earlier 1970s factory disc brakes, you would not be happy which how free those wheels did not turn. Nothing to do with the front wheel bearing grease seals. FWIW

The other thing is that if the seals measure to Timken's catalog specs, perhaps THEY should be contacted. Perhaps you can get past the "telephone people" to have a short conversation with a "knowledgeable engineer" on this matter?

Just some thoughts and observatrions,
CBODY67
 
Here are some pics from the front drums i saved from a parts car years ago.The seals appear to be flush inside the hub . Hope this helps.Imperially,Gary...

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Obviously 2 different seals.

I would check that Mopar part #2678017 against the factory parts manual. I'll bet it's correct. Never trust Rock Auto etc. If you don't have a parts manual (you really should) download one from Parts Manuals – MyMopar

Cross the 2678017 here: 2768017,CHRYSLER 2768017; Seal


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Thanks for the suggestion. As you stated these are two completely different seals. The photo Gary posted has a metal cup flange which would theoretically protrude into the cup on my backing plate. The backing plate on my Imperial has an integral cup which holds a fiber/wick type washer / wick installs from the rear of the backing plate (see photo). The rear hub seal abuts this cup area. I do have a factory parts manual and the Chrysler/Mopar part number is 2266 890. The cross reference from multiple websites is the Timken 6960 which I am using.
Gary's photo has me wondering if I have installed the seals backwards. My reasoning is in Gary's photo you can clearly see the seal is stamped "outside" with the lip of the seal protruding towards the backing plate. SO, I have sourced a pair of Victor 47385 seals and will give them a try. At least they have some indication of installed direction and from the photos I can see how they should positioned.
 
Issue Solved! Thanks to the photos @garyh posted.
Installed the NOS Victor seals and hubs now rotate smoothly without the drag previously experienced.
Seals were installed with shoulder flush with the rear hub face. The Victor seals have a slightly wider face to face dimension than the Timken seals. The Victor seals also include a rear metal shoulder/cup that slides over the machined center portion of the backing plate.

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