66 new yorker, disk to drum conversion.

Old 66 Yorker

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So my yorker has drums all the way around and the single pot master...found out last night that if your fluid gets a bit down that's a really bad thing..))

So..with brakes I'm not afraid of throwing money at it to be better, should I go disk in front only or disk all the way around? I've already changed to 15x7 craiger style American racing rims.

What do the pros say, is there a kit out there for my big sexy beast?
 

Ross Wooldridge

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There are numerous well informed threads on this very conversion, and is the single best upgrade you can do.

69 - 73 C body is a bolt in.

The search function is your friend.
 

mikedrini

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I agree with @Ross Wooldridge (also know around these parts as the Brakemaster) and I converted my fronts to disc and rebuilt the rear drums. Just spend some time on the googlizer or FCBO sifting through and you'll find plenty of drum-disc conversions. Summit may have some kits as well. I say start with the fronts and take it for a drive. If they feel great leave em, if not, convert the backs too. Words of advice: Be sure your Master Cylinder aligns with your goals i.e. Disc/Drum MC or Disc/Disc MC. Be sure you have a proportioning valve. If using a brake booster, better to be safe and go with a Disc Brake Booster although some have managed to get away with a Power Drum Booster.
 

traintech55

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I did this conversion on my 66 300 before I sold it to Ripinator.
1. 1969 thru 1972 spindles are the same, 1973 bolts in, but they have a larger wheel bearing, and are getting quite hard to find. The rotors, bearings, and grease seal must be the correct ones for the spindle you get.
2. The calipers and pads are the same, 1969 thru 1973.
3. This is a good time to upgrade to the dual master and disk booster, 1967 or 1968. Newer boosters will interfere with your shift linkage if you have a column shift.
4. I replaced all the brake lines with ones from a 1967 from Inline tube, came pre bent and went right in. I also used an adjustable proportioning valve plumbed into the rear line.
Good luck, and you won't be sorry.
 

stubs300

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So my yorker has drums all the way around and the single pot master...found out last night that if your fluid gets a bit down that's a really bad thing..))

What do you really want to do? You could spend the money and do the changes needed for disc. Or you could just get a 67-69 Drum Master cylinder and tap a couple of lines and not have to worry about that problem again. Unless the rest of the system is trashed out? Good Luck
 

Old 66 Yorker

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Summit does have a few different full kits available. The leer kits look to have some good reviews and the Wildwood is much less flattering for a 66. I guess what I'm fishing for is what folks here think of the different kits they have used. Set of fronts with booster and master is about 1.2k usd. For that kind of money ide like to hear story time before parting with the Cash ))
 

stubs300

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I guess what I'm fishing for is what folks here think of the different kits they have used. Set of fronts with booster and master is about 1.2k usd. For that kind of money ide like to hear story time before parting with the Cash ))

A lot of those kits require 15" wheels. If you don't have 15 inchers already, are you willing to spend even more to get new wheels & tires so you can drive it?
 

Old 66 Yorker

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20210420_163136.jpg
 

JEP

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I used the SSBC kit. They gave me 2 passenger caliper brackets, but everything fit fine. Parts went on like advertised. My car is a 66 Newport, and was a power drum car. Also I run the original 14” rims, they required a 1/4 inch spacer so the caliper would not touch the rim
 

stubs300

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I used the same for my 66-300 front & rear. I had to use a 5/8 spacer, I could never figure out why when they said it'd fit without problems?
 
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