67 Fury engine wiring help

nobananas

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Hi guys, new on here so be kind ! A bit of background information. I'm in the UK and I work for a very, very small company who deal with American imports (mainly Corvettes and Mustangs) but I am currently working on a 67' Fury III, 318. It's a 'back burner' project which we have had for some time working on it between other projects to keep the costs down for the owner. Sadly it had suffered from a fairly devastating engine fire which is how we became involved. Unfortunately when we got it everything that was toast had been removed from the car leaving just an empty engine bay but with a crispy engine still in place. We've pulled, rebuilt and refitted the motor and now I'm starting on the rewire. I've replaced and rewired the bulkhead connector using the correct pattern terminals and I've got a new engine wiring loom in place with new voltage regulator, ballast and starter relay hooked up and fitted (likely in not quite OE positions but I don't have anything to go on !). My query is that I'm a little confused regarding fitment and positions of fusible links. I have a 67 Plymouth service manual and according to the engine compartment wiring diagram there is only a fusible link fitted from the battery terminal of the starter relay to pin Z of the bulkhead connector. It doesn't show the feed from the battery to the starter relay as being a fusible link or from the alternator to pin P of the bulkhead connector (the latter had clearly overheated the bulkhead connector previously and had been repositioned through a grommet in the bulkhead and the wire ends joined together which I have replicated). I have been trawling the net looking for diagrams and most have shown fusible links at these locations and also going to the horn relay on some but according to the service manual I have...nope ! So to sum up......totally confused now, do not want this to catch fire again, surely there should be some protection (at least from the battery to the starter relay !) Any help you can give would be fantastic !

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Unfortuneately my '68 Fury is at the transmission shop so I can't take photos. There is only one fuseible link that I am aware of and my recall is that it runs from the starter relay to the bulkhead connector. I am sure that someone here can post some photos.
 
Hi guys, new on here so be kind ! A bit of background information. I'm in the UK and I work for a very, very small company who deal with American imports (mainly Corvettes and Mustangs) but I am currently working on a 67' Fury III, 318. It's a 'back burner' project which we have had for some time working on it between other projects to keep the costs down for the owner. Sadly it had suffered from a fairly devastating engine fire which is how we became involved. Unfortunately when we got it everything that was toast had been removed from the car leaving just an empty engine bay but with a crispy engine still in place. We've pulled, rebuilt and refitted the motor and now I'm starting on the rewire. I've replaced and rewired the bulkhead connector using the correct pattern terminals and I've got a new engine wiring loom in place with new voltage regulator, ballast and starter relay hooked up and fitted (likely in not quite OE positions but I don't have anything to go on !). My query is that I'm a little confused regarding fitment and positions of fusible links. I have a 67 Plymouth service manual and according to the engine compartment wiring diagram there is only a fusible link fitted from the battery terminal of the starter relay to pin Z of the bulkhead connector. It doesn't show the feed from the battery to the starter relay as being a fusible link or from the alternator to pin P of the bulkhead connector (the latter had clearly overheated the bulkhead connector previously and had been repositioned through a grommet in the bulkhead and the wire ends joined together which I have replicated). I have been trawling the net looking for diagrams and most have shown fusible links at these locations and also going to the horn relay on some but according to the service manual I have...nope ! So to sum up......totally confused now, do not want this to catch fire again, surely there should be some protection (at least from the battery to the starter relay !) Any help you can give would be fantastic !

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There should be a small lead coming off the positive battery cable that is hooked to the starter relay, this is the correct location of the fusible link.. There should be a short wire going over to the to terminal "Z" which feeds the power to the ammeter. The ammeter feeds power to most of the rest of the electrical components. Dave
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Thanks Dave, so both terminal P and Z go to the Ammeter but terminal Z has the F link. Any ideas what gauge and lengths any of the links should be ? I've got absolutely nothing to go on !
 
Unfortuneately my '68 Fury is at the transmission shop so I can't take photos. There is only one fuseible link that I am aware of and my recall is that it runs from the starter relay to the bulkhead connector. I am sure that someone here can post some photos.
Thanks, I might throw some pics up tomorrow, sure someone will get a laugh from it.
 
I have a ‘68 Polara (non A/C) which I rebuilt the harness back to Factory spec. Should be very close to the’67 Fury. Also a 383 engine which shouldn’t make a difference in this case.

I do have one modification which includes power to my headlight relays I installed for brighter lights and less power draw.
Should also help with routing.
The fuseable link plugs into the Battery power which is fed from the starter relay. In my manual it drops from the red 10gauge wire to a 16 gauge disable link.
I found the fusible link wire at National chain Parts store and added my original fusible link tag and proper style connectors . Hopefully this visual helps.

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Wire Length is about 6-1/2” to 7” ( tape measure shows from the bulkhead (not including connectors to the end of the harness connector
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ClassicCarWiring.com. I was in the same situation as you, trying to patch together engine wiring harness after a fire. Ordered the large (I think about 20 x 30 inch) laminated wiring diagram for my 67 300. Color coded which is really nice not having to trace every color back and forth. The diagram cost me around $30 and also has a separate sheet for power windows, locks, seats and A/C. One of the best things I ever bought!
 
Okay so, new problem. What do you do when fusible link wire is completely unavailable in your country and you don't have time to wait for it to be sent from the States ? I know fuses don't behave the same way as fusible link wire but I'm I'm drawing a blank here !
 
Okay so, new problem. What do you do when fusible link wire is completely unavailable in your country and you don't have time to wait for it to be sent from the States ? I know fuses don't behave the same way as fusible link wire but I'm I'm drawing a blank here !
It is just thinner gauge wire. I'm sure you can Google a chart to determine the size needed.
 
It is just thinner gauge wire. I'm sure you can Google a chart to determine the size needed.
This is true but its the heat and flameproof insulation that's that seems to be the important bit (apparently fusible link wire is banned from sale in the UK, who knew !). I can find slow blow cartridge fuses which are designed to absorb current spikes so that may be the way I will have to go. Assuming that the 10 gauge wire is rated at 30 amps (maybe, seems a bit low) then a 25amp slow blow fuse might work ?
 
The fusible link is more than a smaller gauge wire. It is a “slow burn” fuse. With a little heat or overload, it won’t blow, but with a consistent over load it will. It seems some relays are sold with fusible links. One would think that there would be something similar available in UK.
 
The fusible link is more than a smaller gauge wire. It is a “slow burn” fuse. With a little heat or overload, it won’t blow, but with a consistent over load it will. It seems some relays are sold with fusible links. One would think that there would be something similar available in UK.
The closest thing I can find are slow blow cartridge fuses which are specifically designed to absorb peak current spikes which is a similar function to fusible link wire. Absolutely nothing available in the UK as I believe fusible link wire is banned from sale in most eu countries (not even the few American car parts suppliers we have stock it !) I'm running out of options so something like this may be better than nothing.https://uk.farnell.com/littelfuse/153-5631-5301/bolt-on-fuse-slow-blow-30a-32v/dp/2508407
 
This is true but its the heat and flameproof insulation that's that seems to be the important bit (apparently fusible link wire is banned from sale in the UK, who knew !). I can find slow blow cartridge fuses which are designed to absorb current spikes so that may be the way I will have to go. Assuming that the 10 gauge wire is rated at 30 amps (maybe, seems a bit low) then a 25amp slow blow fuse might work ?
Whatever, you want that section of wire to burn up before, and not ruin the whole harness. The vinyl insulation on wires today is better than vinyl of 1965, you will be fine.
It is protection, not a fancy accessory.
 
Whatever, you want that section of wire to burn up before, and not ruin the whole harness. The vinyl insulation on wires today is better than vinyl of 1965, you will be fine.
It is protection, not a fancy accessory.
Not doing it as a fancy accessory, don't want another fire to happen with this vehicle !
 
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