78 NYB Holley Sniper install.. the end of my lean burn fun

I've been watching this thread closely. Thank you for posting this project. I'm learning a ton about something that I unfortunately will never do. The great thing is it's not costing me a penny. Good job, Jav. I'm happy it's been going smoothly. It wouldn't have if I was doing this, lol.
 
One thing with the carb spacers. Make sure you adjust for a prettly large pumpshot in the software to compensate, I went from no spacer to spacer and it needed +25% or something like that! Its because you increase the size of the plenum.
 
One thing with the carb spacers. Make sure you adjust for a prettly large pumpshot in the software to compensate, I went from no spacer to spacer and it needed +25% or something like that! Its because you increase the size of the plenum.
I’ll check.

I haven’t seen anything about that in the instruction or videos. The only thing mentioned was that you need to either cut down the division between the banks in the manifold or create a connection between them with a spacer of about 1/2”. Obviously, I weenied out with the easier option.
 
One step forward and one step back.

Valve covers arrived last night.

Found a leak at the harmonic balancer/timing chain cover….. posted a few questions regarding replacement… seal was also ripped.

Need a new harmonic balancer. Just posted some questions regarding fluid filled v original on the drive line transmission subject line. Here on FCBO.

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Harmonic balancer with swollen damper rubber and deformed seal mating surface
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Ripped worn cover seal
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New valve cover arrived. Nice and flat no wobble on table.

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Well…. At least I know it won’t leak. Even more disappointed in original rebuilder. He should have noted this or perhaps he was the one who messed up the balancer….
 
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Maybe it's just the pic, but that looks to me like one of those repair sleeves was pressed on. I don't know how those are in the long term...

Side note.... Maybe you don't want to... But I'd love to see what the final cost is on this. I've thought about doing this conversion from time to time for my 300... I always stop at the cost... Being cheap is probably the biggest obstacle for me, but then again, doing things like the new roof on the house and that crown the dentist is gluing in next week has cut into my play money...

I hate to look back at how much I spent, so I get it if you don't want to.

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Maybe it's just the pic, but that looks to me like one of those repair sleeves was pressed on. I don't know how those are in the long term...

Side note.... Maybe you don't want to... But I'd love to see what the final cost is on this. I've thought about doing this conversion from time to time for my 300... I always stop at the cost... Being cheap is probably the biggest obstacle for me, but then again, doing things like the new roof on the house and that crown the dentist is gluing in next week has cut into my play money...

I hate to look back at how much I spent, so I get it if you don't want to.

View attachment 580969
Agreed… it is some sort of sleeve.

Looks like whoever installed it pounded it on or has no idea how to use a press. It is deformed (not flat along the rotational axis of the sleeve and damper on the surface of sleeve…. Not wear related)

Oil soaked bulging rubber mount for outer ring also “no bueno”.
 
New harmonic balancer arrived last week and it lines up pretty close with the original.

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Came well packed and free of any damage.
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Eccentric weight came with locktight on screws as evidenced by the other side/end of screws.
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These markings may come in handy if (when) I add ignition timing control from the snyper computer.
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Using a straight edge from my micrometer to align old and new key ways …..
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You can see the difference in alignment between the old and new timing marks.
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Snyper going in and the wiring fun will soon begin. (Had to step out of town for the weekend to visit my daughter.)

Bought last week was also a dual terminal battery to wire in the Snyper (as per instructions) directly to the battery. They don’t make a group 27 with duals so I had to step one size down. Still 800 CCA so it shouldn’t be a problem.

New valve covers will need taller studs (4- 2 per side) and longer bolts. The new covers are extra thick at the mounting holes.

Finally, based on advice received here, I’m going to check timing marks against crank for true top dead center.
 
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Jav. What’s your source for the compressor and brackets?
Bouchillion makes brackets and will sell with or without a compressor.

BPE A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket Kit Big Block - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

I would use Aeroquip EZ Clip hose and fittings system. The hoses are almost half the OD of the originals (same ID) and they don't require crimping as they use 2 clamps similar to some EFI hoses. They use a special pair of pliers and it is literally click click and you're done. No leaks and the fittings are reusable should a hose ever fail in the future.

They also make a variety of fitting adapters for a lot of different systems although I'm not sure if that includes the RV2 era Mopars but I'm sure they have something that could be Tig welded into the steel tube end if you cut it off the original hose.

EZ Clip Fittings | Aeroquip

Kevin
 
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Ok…. So I know this my thread on the Sniper install and I’ve polluted it with harmonic balancers, A/C compressor replacement with a Sanden unit (arrived today) and brackets (arriving Friday?) and a two posted battery (already installed)

But today was all back to Sniper business…

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Things are getting snugged down. New vacuum lines going in and super and new (old?) electronic ignition are now in. Didn’t like some of the connections made so I’m redoing them. Also old lean burn harness is being retired.

RV2 is in for the pulley and to get the hoses out of the way for now.
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New harmonic balancer in and checked and it is spot on.
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Although I need change out the pointer.
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Still looking for the lost vacuum canister for the A/C…. If anyone has one they can spare, I would appreciate it.
 
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Ok…. So I know this my thread on the Snyder install and I’ve polluted it with harmonic balancers, A/C compressor replacement with a Sanden unit (arrived today) and brackets (arriving Friday?) and a two posted battery (already installed)

But today was all back to Snyder businesss…

View attachment 583506
Things are getting snugged down. New vacuum lines going in and super and new (old?) electronic ignition are now in. Didn’t like some of the connections made so I’m redoing them. Also old lean burn harness is being retired.

RV2 is in for the pulley and to get the hoses out of the way for now.
View attachment 583507
New harmonic balancer in and checked and it is spot on.
View attachment 583510
Although I need change out the pointer.
View attachment 583511
Still looking for the lost vacuum canister for the A/C…. If anyone has one they can spare, I would appreciate it.
You can use a Ford Mustang repro in its place.
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No ignition signal to the computer. Something is either mis-wired or not continuous.

Starting with troubleshooting guide tomorrow afternoon.
 
Huzzah!!!!!

It lives again!!!! Got to the shop. Sorted some wires… asked a few questions. Checked the polarity at the coil… backward.

Fixed

Ran through the set up wizard… check. Cycled ignition to reset with the loaded parameters I checked and…… Boom. Spun about one turn and fired on the first try.



Ran it up to temp but didn’t drive it yet. Still too many things left to do.

1) put in new distributor ( it wasn’t working because the pick up was not close enough to reluctor for good signal.)

2) have them put old distributor back in the wagon. They took it out suspecting the new one was off but didn’t know what was wrong.

3) passenger side exhaust manifold leaking coolant through studs at rear. Looks like an old Stanley steamer with puffs and whistles. Pull manifold and confirm studs are set correctly before tightening

4) I removed the excess wiring for the LeanBurn connections and sensors (no longer needed. 2 hours of careful unwrapping and reading the FSM.) Need to clean up and route new wiring according to plan. Looks a lot cleaner already.

4a) finish installing ignition.

5) get a new stud for the air cleaner.

6) remove lean burn from air cleaner and cover openings. Was thinking of leaving it but it’s just in the way. Besides… it covers up the fuel pressure gauge.

7) sort linkage for better operation. It will run up to 95% of appending as is according to the TPS. But…. Not happy with how it works just yet. I’m a bit of a geek that way. Need to create some clearances to avoid close contacts. Raise the throttle cable mount a bit for better angle of linkages.

8) Test runs so computer can learn.

9) check pushrods for clearance. They sound a little ticky still (to me)

After the above is complete….

10) A/C brackets arrived today. Install new Sanden compressor and send out hoses for modification. Get A/C up and running again.

11) Make and install cover for pump in trunk.

12) Clean and spiff her up and finally enjoy.

It already runs super smooth. Like it should.

Overall… good day!

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Still have a lot of sorting to do. But…..So smooth …. Not even the loose wires wiggle.
 
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