When the band adjuster is first torqued down to a certain value, that is applying the band full on (which is where the driveshaft turning comes in to play). From that point, then back it off a certain amount and lock it down with the lock nut.
The "backing off until you can just turn the driveshaft by hand" is like backing off the adjuster on a drum brake after tightening it until the drum can't be turned. Backing off the adjuster so the drum turns freely results in the final adjustment.
I am presuming ALL of these adjustments should be made with the transmission at full operating temperature?
Certainly, these "shade tree methods" can and do work. As the OEMs will use torque amounts to put a more professional face on things, for dealership purposes.
To me, "performance shifts" include an elevated shift point, and with a higher line pressure. None of which apply to band adjustments per se. Deleting the accumulator spring can "harshen" the shift action, though.
Whatever works,
CBODY67