Ammeter bypass question

[Dillon]

Good afternoon guys,

I have a question about the simple ammeter bypass.

I know most folks run a proper cable with a fuse or fusible link from the post on the alternator to the post on the starter solenoid. Some folks run a cable from the post on the alternator to the positive post on the battery.

I’m fastidious about original correct appearance. When restoring my car I was careful to preserve original assembly line inspection markings. I really wanna do the ammeter bypass but would like to keep the battery terminals and starter relay area as uncluttered as possible.

My question to you knowledgeable guys: could I run a 10awg fused cable from the alternator post, along the wiring harness across the top of the engine, down to the post on the starter where the large gauge cable from the battery is connected?

Would that work just as well as the options above? Is there something I am missing?

Thanks so much for any comments, advice, or suggestions.

 

[Big_John]

Nothing wrong with doing it that way.

Just watch the heat from the exhaust. It can melt the insulation and it doesn't have to touch it for it to happen. AMHIK.

 

[darth_linux]

That's what I did. 10ga red wire going back along where the valve cover meets the intake, up to the firewall, across, going through the loom thingies, then right down to the starter relay.

You can see how mine looks in the first few pictures on my build thread. Not exactly "factory" as I wasn't attempting to do that, but tidy enough for me. '66 Newport 2 Door hardtop

 

[Big_John]

That's what I did. 10ga red wire going back along where the valve cover meets the intake, up to the firewall, across, going through the loom thingies, then right down to the starter relay.

You can see how mine looks in the first few pictures on my build thread. No exactly "factory" as I wasn't attempting to do that, but tidy enough for me. '66 Newport 2 Door hardtop

He wants to attach it to the starter solenoid, not the relay.

The solenoid is down on the starter.

The difference is a solenoid moves something and a relay makes electrical connections. In this case, the solenoid moves the starter gear into place and makes an electrical connection to spin the starter.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Like Big John says, I also have burned wires going behind the exhaust manifold down to the starter. Also the #7 spark plug wire can fall victim to the same heat. For wiring protection, I have used heat sleeves like this:
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[cbarge]

Nothing wrong going with the starter...just more work.
Can't see how one extra wire can clutter things up.
Check 27:28

 

[darth_linux]

He wants to attach it to the starter solenoid, not the relay.

The solenoid is down on the starter.

The difference is a solenoid moves something and a relay makes electrical connections. In this case, the solenoid moves the starter gear into place and makes an electrical connection to spin the starter.

Ooh, I missed that detail. Thanks for catching that.

So going to the solenoid because it is less visible? Is that the rationale of the OP?

 

[Dillon]

Thanks so much for the input.
One extra wire to the starter relay wouldn't be such a big deal. From the battery or relay I have to power a hidden audio system, headlight relay harness, a battery tender, and the ammeter bypass. That's the clutter around there that I was trying to minimize

 

[cbarge]

Thanks so much for the input.
One extra wire to the starter relay wouldn't be such a big deal. From the battery or relay I have to power a hidden audio system, headlight relay harness, a battery tender, and the ammeter bypass. That's the clutter around there that I was trying to minimize

I am running terminals fir headlight relays as well on the 68 Newport in the video.
On that car I made sure everything was neat and tidy.