And so begins the next project...disc brakes.

[strokerpost]

Just got the A/C system rebuilt, now for the disc brake swap. Picked up the cores today from a 73 New Yorker. Paid $200 for what you see here and only the spindles, dust shields and prop valve will be used, but I don't know of any place to get new spindles, so the tear down and clean up begins. Want to get everything cleaned up and or replaced, then I want to strip off the UCL, LCA and strut rods and replace the much worn and squeaky bushings. Might just as well do it all at the same time. Be a little while before I can jump into this as I'm down with my back.....again. :rant:

 

[commando1]

Might just as well do it all at the same time.

That's the only way to go. Git'er done once and for all. What good are new ball joints if the bushings are 45 years old. People spend months researching shocks and the rest of the front end is as sloppy as a Conestoga wagon.

< Sent from my tablet >

 

[thrashingcows]

My advice on the proportioning valve....ditch it. Leave the drum brake junction block in place. It is only that, a junction block. It tee's the front brake lines together, and then redirects to the rear line as well...and has a brake warning light already built in.

When I di my 73 C-body disc upgrade I used an original Prop valve...gave me more problems then it was worth. I later found that you don't need that valve. It's there for ease of assembly line, and a compromise on braking. I have since Tee'd my front lines together and run them straight to the rear port on my MC. Then on the rear line, again straight off the front port on the MC, but this I spliced in a manual adjustable brake valve. Little fine tuning on the rear line to get them to lock up properly, and now my brakes are amazing. Better then when I had the factory prop valve in place.

Again these are just my findings, and suggestions. You can do things however you please. ;)

But $200 for everything is a decent price....good buy!

 

[strokerpost]

My advice on the proportioning valve....ditch it. Leave the drum brake junction block in place. It is only that, a junction block. It tee's the front brake lines together, and then redirects to the rear line as well...and has a brake warning light already built in.

When I di my 73 C-body disc upgrade I used an original Prop valve...gave me more problems then it was worth. I later found that you don't need that valve. It's there for ease of assembly line, and a compromise on braking. I have since Tee'd my front lines together and run them straight to the rear port on my MC. Then on the rear line, again straight off the front port on the MC, but this I spliced in a manual adjustable brake valve. Little fine tuning on the rear line to get them to lock up properly, and now my brakes are amazing. Better then when I had the factory prop valve in place.

Again these are just my findings, and suggestions. You can do things however you please. ;)

But $200 for everything is a decent price....good buy!

Well ya know, I did exactly that same thing on my drag car, just eliminated the prop all together and just made a T for the fronts, and used an adjustable valve for balance. Sound wisdom.

 

[strokerpost]

A question, can the 73 disc brake dust shields be bought new anywhere? The ones that came from the donor car are rotted to pieces. Thanks for any ideas.

 

[1966newport]

nope, used only

 

[strokerpost]

nope, used only

That figures. Would you happen to know if the 73 shields are unique to the 73 or will other years work? I should prolly ask that in a separate thread. Thanks BTW.